Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Escondido, Caifornia ( 36 Miles north of San Diego )
One of the things I can say is I hope you have a set of metric Allen Sockets as the 5mm is what you need and taking off about 40 of those buggers, some in tight difficult to get at places will make the job a lot faster and easier. The Allen screws on my bike came in 3 types straight threaded, shouldered for about 3/16", and some with a plastic seal or washer attached. All but five were the same length. Do make note of where each goes as the shouldered ones will not lock down if placed in the wrong spot ( Don't ask how I know ). You need to take the side molding ( vents ) off first ( held on by 3 screws one is on the inside), then tank cover, then the beak, and last the instrument housing. Most of the screws are pretty easy to locate but there are 6 under the front of the beak securing it and the instrument housing. It helps to remove the horn as it gets in the way. Do note that on mine there was very little room to move the instrument cover to get to the inside housing as it had a very thin short wire ( part of the harness ) that limited pulling the panel out very far. I used a 1 1/8 Forstner bit ( flat bottomed wood working bit ) to cut the hole for the socket. I don't like the long starter bit of a hole saw sticking back near the wiring, it just makes me nervous. The images are of the finished dash and a shot of the micro waterproof fuse holder I used.