Just installed a 12volt accessory socket on my G310GS - BMW G310 R/GS Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 03:13 AM Thread Starter
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Just installed a 12volt accessory socket on my G310GS

So today after I got my bike back from its run in service. It started raining so I figured today was the day to add my 12 volt socket. I ordered a marine grade waterproof socket and dual usb 2.4 amp charger a couple days ago which arrived this morning. I stripped the front of the bike to get to the instrument cluster / head lamp area and with the help of a friend ( professional electrician ) we wired in the socket with an inline waterproof micro 7.5 amp fuse. Went straight off the battery, as like most others, I could not get a connector to match up with the ones on the wiring harness and didn't want to splice in or tap into the existing harness. Laid the new wiring along the original harness and zip tied it all in place. The socket is mounted to the right side of the instrument cluster and looks pretty clean. I will pick up a short 12" usb cable for my phone tomorrow and post a couple pictures. The socket and usb adapter I got do not have any LED's on them so do not draw on the battery when not in use. My friend verified it with his fluke tester and said no current draw from the battery unless I plug something in.

My dealer was rather shocked when I brought the bike in for the run in, as I only had it 7 days and put 638 miles on it. I really like the feel and handling of the bike. I really tried to keep it under 6k for rpms but in all honestly it was more like under 8k. Lots of hills and twisties, some freeway ( around 100 miles ) at 65 -75 mph and over the 3 full tanks of gas I put in it I averaged 66 mpg.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zente View Post
I stripped the front of the bike to get to the instrument cluster / head lamp area...
I need to do the same thing. The "wings" to either side of the instrument cluster appear to be the ideal place to install one.

Any words of wisdom about stripping the front end (hidden screws, whatever) that you can share?

I've got a Fuzeblock coming in the mail and will install it in the tool pouch location and wire it in to the battery. Doing this lets me run separate fused circuits to farkles without having to screw with the stock harness and/or stacking multiple wires on the battery.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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@ MichaelJ
One of the things I can say is I hope you have a set of metric Allen Sockets as the 5mm is what you need and taking off about 40 of those buggers, some in tight difficult to get at places will make the job a lot faster and easier. The Allen screws on my bike came in 3 types straight threaded, shouldered for about 3/16", and some with a plastic seal or washer attached. All but five were the same length. Do make note of where each goes as the shouldered ones will not lock down if placed in the wrong spot ( Don't ask how I know ). You need to take the side molding ( vents ) off first ( held on by 3 screws one is on the inside), then tank cover, then the beak, and last the instrument housing. Most of the screws are pretty easy to locate but there are 6 under the front of the beak securing it and the instrument housing. It helps to remove the horn as it gets in the way. Do note that on mine there was very little room to move the instrument cover to get to the inside housing as it had a very thin short wire ( part of the harness ) that limited pulling the panel out very far. I used a 1 1/8 Forstner bit ( flat bottomed wood working bit ) to cut the hole for the socket. I don't like the long starter bit of a hole saw sticking back near the wiring, it just makes me nervous. The images are of the finished dash and a shot of the micro waterproof fuse holder I used.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 02:06 PM
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If you're not intending to use your smarthone/GPS unit fixed on the (moving) bar, thats's fine, otherwise your charging cable will badly move during steering.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 04:35 PM
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Thanks for that - didn't realize that I had to remove all that much bodywork just to get the top cover of the instrument cluster off.

Metric hex keys I've got - standard "L" shaped ball end and 3/8" drive socket type. I've even got Forstner bits - but I won't need one as I'll be installing a Powerlet socket (19mm) to provide power to my GPS and another (10mm) to fit an LED voltage monitor in. A standard stepped multi-bit will take care of both nicely.

Thanks also for the note on types and location of screws. What I normally do is to sketch the outline of what I'm working on on a piece of scrap cardboard, poke holes in it at the screw locations and plug the screws into the holes as I remove them. Everything stays handy and doesn't roll under god-knows-what.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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@dejah

I am using a 14 inch ( 35cm ) long silicon sealed cable like this https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-flexi...01D3W9DUO?th=1 But not this brand as I have had it for awhile. I have never had an issue with it getting in the way, damaging the ports, nor coming loose. Movement of the cable is minimal and these type of cables are tested to 5000-15000 bends at the connector depending on the maker. The Ancor lightning + cables for apple products are tested to 12k to 15k bends and certified.
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