A little community service today...
If anyone is interested in how easy it is to access the air-box/filter, and or remove the front bodywork of the bike, it's not... dozens of sodding bolts (although most are the same size/shape at least) to get all the bitty panels off - and you do need to remove the tank cover and grey side panels as one piece to get the air-box:
Once the panels are off, you can remove the snorkel pretty easily - just two clips on the top and it pivots forward to access the paper filer element inside:
The coolant bottle is much easier to access with the tank/side covers off too, although the handbook does say you can top it up with the fairing in place...
A handy hint that some of you may wish to incorporate, is to remove the side-stand cut-out switch - that way it cannot fail at an inopportune moment (of if it does, at least you'll know which wires to join together to bypass it):
photo. basically join these two: the black/green and yellow/blue wires - leaving the red/green wire free.
photo. with these two wires joined together, the bike will start and run in gear, even with the side-stand switch disconnected, and with no warning light on the dash - result!
Another thing I've incorporated this weekend, which again a number of you may wish to replicate is to wire in a USB socket to the switched Auxiliary connecters next to the headlight:
I bought a pair of female connectors from an ebay seller in Canada that connect directly to the connectors by the side of the headlight. One was wired to my USB socket, the other powers my Garmin GPS cradle, and both are switched with the ignition, which I personally prefer.
photo. plenty of room in the wings of the dash panel for a USB socket and/or a 12v/powerlet socket if you prefer.
photo. plenty of space on top of the headlight for the connectors.
Hope that helps anyone planning something similar...