Hepco & Becker Additions - BMW G310 R/GS Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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Hepco & Becker Additions

Received and installed engine guards, fairing bars and a top case mount from Hepco & Becker. Engine guards and top case mount were great fits and installed easily. The fairing bars required coming up with a couple of spacers. Also, where they join in a sleeve connection it required filing and grinding to remove enough of the heavy paint to establish a sleeve connection. A bit of a PITA but the end result seems good.
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Gerald Massey
Brush Prairie, WA

'18 Red G310GS
'10 R1200RT
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by GMassey View Post
The fairing bars required coming up with a couple of spacers.
Looks good. Details on the spacers? These bars are at the top of my list at the moment.

TIA
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Looks good. Details on the spacers? These bars are at the top of my list at the moment.

TIA
Both spacers were required at the top connection under the ďbeakĒ. On the riderís left side (clutch side) I needed a 5mm spacer and a longer screw, an M5x25 as opposed to the OEM M5x15. On the riderís right side (brake side) I required a 10mm spacer and longer screw (used same as left side). Iím not crazy about this connection point and may strengthen it at some point... though it does use a hard point, the connection method (per H&B installation instructions) is to use the OEM screw, which is a simple body screw and anchors in one of the clips used all over the body. As noted the connection does travel through a metal flange hard point but this really doesnít seem adequate for something designed to preserve the body panels.

I have had terrible experiences with these body panel clips that act as nuts. They are very fragile and in two cases when they broke they also broke off part of a plastic connection point, requiring some creative repair. I bought a bag of 10 at the dealer and have already used 8 of them as the clip becoming bent is what leads to the connection point damage. So if bent i tossed them and replaced with new. So far that seems to be working out fine. Hopefully I am done now with removal of body panels!

Along those lines one final comment on the fairing guards. One of the things I like is how well they fit, with minimal spacing from the body, leaving a pretty compact overall width. However today I discovered the price that requires - the upper guards have to be removed to remove the main body panel (tank cover, fairings, etc.). As I was replacing the bent or broken fasteners noted above I had to remove the bars first. The small logo panels can be removed by carefully bringing them out, but not the main piece.

No idea whether the spacer requirement on the bars is a tolerance issue or what...
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Gerald Massey
Brush Prairie, WA

'18 Red G310GS
'10 R1200RT
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 01:07 PM
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That's the cleanest garage I think I've ever seen. Definitely not like my shop AT ALL!
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by GMassey View Post
Both spacers were required at the top connection under the ďbeakĒ. On the riderís left side (clutch side) I needed a 5mm spacer and a longer screw, an M5x25 as opposed to the OEM M5x15. On the riderís right side (brake side) I required a 10mm spacer and longer screw (used same as left side). Iím not crazy about this connection point and may strengthen it at some point... though it does use a hard point, the connection method (per H&B installation instructions) is to use the OEM screw, which is a simple body screw and anchors in one of the clips used all over the body. As noted the connection does travel through a metal flange hard point but this really doesnít seem adequate for something designed to preserve the body panels.

I have had terrible experiences with these body panel clips that act as nuts. They are very fragile and in two cases when they broke they also broke off part of a plastic connection point, requiring some creative repair. I bought a bag of 10 at the dealer and have already used 8 of them as the clip becoming bent is what leads to the connection point damage. So if bent i tossed them and replaced with new. So far that seems to be working out fine. Hopefully I am done now with removal of body panels!

Along those lines one final comment on the fairing guards. One of the things I like is how well they fit, with minimal spacing from the body, leaving a pretty compact overall width. However today I discovered the price that requires - the upper guards have to be removed to remove the main body panel (tank cover, fairings, etc.). As I was replacing the bent or broken fasteners noted above I had to remove the bars first. The small logo panels can be removed by carefully bringing them out, but not the main piece.

No idea whether the spacer requirement on the bars is a tolerance issue or what...
Installed the lower guard without issue. Attempted the the upper and could not get all four connection points to line up. Glad to have found your solution. I was losing my mind and was at the point of trying to force which I feel would have resulted in damaging the connection points under the front fender. I was convinced the brackets that are welded on the bar for the connection under the fender were attached at the wrong angle. This solution makes perfect sense. Looks to be a great product and really like the look. Do you have any concerns with your solution?What did you use for spacers and where did you purchase?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 10:25 AM
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Installed the lower guard without issue. Attempted the the upper and could not get all four connection points to line up. Glad to have found your solution. I was losing my mind and was at the point of trying to force which I feel would have resulted in damaging the connection points under the front fender. I was convinced the brackets that are welded on the bar for the connection under the fender were attached at the wrong angle. This solution makes perfect sense. Looks to be a great product and really like the look. Do you have any concerns with your solution?What did you use for spacers and where did you purchase?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
I wonder why I did not need any additional spacers? all the parts provided by hepco were enough to fit both the lower and upper guards cleanly.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 11:13 AM
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I wonder why I did not need any additional spacers? all the parts provided by hepco were enough to fit both the lower and upper guards cleanly.
I'm wondering the same. If you figure it out I would love to know. Here's another thread where Focus Frenzy has the same issue. If you look at his pic you can see how the upper guard doesn't align with the bolt hole on the lower guard.

https://www.g310rforum.com/forum/194...on-bars-3.html
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 01:52 PM
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I'm wondering the same. If you figure it out I would love to know. Here's another thread where Focus Frenzy has the same issue. If you look at his pic you can see how the upper guard doesn't align with the bolt hole on the lower guard.

https://www.g310rforum.com/forum/194...on-bars-3.html
this one is SV Motech. I had an assistance from my mechanic to fit Hepco lower and upper guards, and there were some challenges, but at the end the upper guards were just FORCED to go into the right place without any additional spacers. So you need to play with it a bit, instead of using spacers.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 02:50 PM
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this one is SV Motech. I had an assistance from my mechanic to fit Hepco lower and upper guards, and there were some challenges, but at the end the upper guards were just FORCED to go into the right place without any additional spacers. So you need to play with it a bit, instead of using spacers.
Yes I know the skid plate is SV motech. What I'm referencing and if you look closely at Focus Frenzy's pic you can see how the top H&B tank guard does not line-up with holes in the bottom H&B engine guard. Can you recall how you FORCED? I've attached the two bolts under the fender (kept as loose as possible for some play) and I still can only get one of the bolts to line up on the engine guard. I am fearful that if I force too much that I'm going to break the connecting points under the fender - it doesn't look that strong and parts of the plastic fender connect here as well. I also feel that I would literally have to bend steel to get it to fit. Also might consider bending the brackets that are welded on the top of the upper guard and attach under the fender but I fear that would end in a potential disaster. I don't think I should be bending of forcing anything - it show lineup - at least within reason to gets the bolts in and not having to get the assistance of a mechanic or a pipe fitter. :-)
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Gtown View Post
Installed the lower guard without issue. Attempted the the upper and could not get all four connection points to line up. Glad to have found your solution. I was losing my mind and was at the point of trying to force which I feel would have resulted in damaging the connection points under the front fender. I was convinced the brackets that are welded on the bar for the connection under the fender were attached at the wrong angle. This solution makes perfect sense. Looks to be a great product and really like the look. Do you have any concerns with your solution?What did you use for spacers and where did you purchase?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
I have now run my setup with the spacers for roughly a year, 3,500 miles and probably 60/40 paved vs. unpaved, with no issues. I purchased the hardware, including the spacers, at my local True Value hardware store. As to the comments from others that did not require the spacers maybe later versions of the brackets were revised? No idea but mine were very early versions.

Gerald Massey
Brush Prairie, WA

'18 Red G310GS
'10 R1200RT
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