Steering knock - BMW G310 R/GS Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Steering knock

I just got my 310gs a couple of days ago and have broken it in both offroad and on. Just about got to 300kms on the odo. I notice quite a distinct knock in the steering when in hopping over rocks and when i hit the front brake sharply. Anyone had this issue and corrected it?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 03:32 AM
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I just got my 310gs a couple of days ago and have broken it in both offroad and on. Just about got to 300kms on the odo. I notice quite a distinct knock in the steering when in hopping over rocks and when i hit the front brake sharply. Anyone had this issue and corrected it?
I had the same problem. what you need to do is to remove the small rubber in the middle of the triple tree clamp, and using allen key tighten the whole thing. Then move the handlebar, and it should still move free....
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Kris. Will give it a go in the morning before we set off for a ride. I'll let you know how it goes
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 12:07 PM
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Could be just the forks topping out, if so nothing to worry about.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by oldtimer.ca View Post
Could be just the forks topping out, if so nothing to worry about.
Sounds like it's more than that, since the bike also does it on heavy braking.

2018 G 310 R, 2016 C 650 Sport and 1976 (!) Yamaha XS650
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 08:11 PM
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if the steering is loose, the way to check it is to lead the bike while walking next to it, and then front braking. if there is 'clunk' in the steering, it means it is loose. mine came loose from the factory. it was my mechanic, a clever boy, that noticed it.

if the front is topping out, this is one more reason to change the front springs, or the single spring as from RR.

with hard braking, I believe the term is actually 'bottoming out' not topping out... but in order to bottom out the front with hard braking, you would have to REALLY hard brake, to the extend that the the front is unreasonably deeply front diving. it would be an 'achievement' with the rather poor front brake in gs. either case, topping out and bottoming out can eventually damage the suspension. topping out noise would be noticed when the front forks extend back after braking or going through some deep holes in the road; this is usually caused by too fast damping; since the damping is fixed in this bike, filling forks with a higher viscosity fork oil is the only way to help it.

there is a trick with cable tie that you tie on the fork next to the fork seal, and brake hard a few times and see how many mm the cable tie slides down. this will give you the estimate of the total travel of front suspension. it should be obviously less than 180mm, which is the total suspension travel.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 08:56 PM
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Generally speaking, it is important to release the brake lever gradually after braking, not just like an on/off switch. this allows the front to extend gradually, instead of just bouncing up.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Am quite sure that it was not tightened enough from the factory. Tightening the bolt right on top as suggested helped initially but after a hard ride the knock is back. I'll loosen the clamp and try it again.

Definitely it's not the fork topping or bottoming

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 10:20 PM
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Here's the complete procedure for adjusting steering head bearing play (excerpt from the G310R service manual, things might slightly differ on the G310GS, can't confirm)
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 10:41 PM
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Here's the complete procedure for adjusting steering head bearing play (excerpt from the G310R service manual, things might slightly differ on the G310GS, can't confirm)
that's good to know. i will recheck if the top is tightened to correct torque.
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