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40mm Lowering Kit a G310R

35K views 41 replies 16 participants last post by  Baza 
#1 ·
#3 ·
It is expensive but appears to be for a new shorter shock. If a lowering link comes available, the existing shock would have to be dismantled to change the end of the shock. There is no suspension linkage on the G310R as the shock is connected directly to the top of the swinging arm.
 
#7 ·
Received the Wilbers 40mm lowering kit from Ted Porter Beemershop. We will get it installed in the next couple of months. We pulled the front springs and rear shock out of the box and we blown away by the quality. We will post an update once have it installed. We are getting SW frame sliders, Akrapovic exhaust, and the lowering kit all at the same time.
 
#8 ·
I have made a prototype for reducing the overall length of the rear shock. To effectively reduce its length requires replacing the bottom clevis from the shock. To do this safely and easily, I built a shock compressor from some 1" thick plate aluminum and some threaded rods. This allows me to compress and hold the spring while removing the spring retaining washer. The threads on the shock piston rod are M14x1.0mm thread. I have the correct bottoming tap enroute. My test piece I machined from 1018 and 17-4PH stainless can be made even shorter.

I will make another unit from 17-4 for the entire unit including the pivot bushing, and showing the steps to accomplish this task including before and after measurements. When I was looking at the options for the front lower, you get some additional clearance, the bolts holding on the mounting clamps for the handlebars could be replaced with some longer units and add an additional spacer under the clamps. This will raise the bars up, allowing for the front forks to be raised farther upward in the triple tree. Pictures and additional information to follow.
 
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#10 ·
Update to the progress for lowering the rear of the G310R. To help do this change a little safer, I created a spring compressor tool from some 25mm plate aluminum I had on hand along with two 300mm sections of 1/2"-13 threaded rod along with the nuts and washers. I bored out the holes to fit each end of the shock with the deeper pocket to capture the spring.



This tool allows me to safely compress the spring enough to remove the retaining washer from the keeper.





After the retaining washer is removed, you will need a 19mm to loosen the jam nut against the bottom clevis. I was mistaken about the thread pitch prior. It is actually M14x1.25mm. The mounting depth for the factory clevis is 17.5mm deep. Within the photo below are, from left to right: The factory clevis, (47.5mm tall to the center of the bushing), my first prototype (32.5mm tall) and the smallest size (27.0mm tall).



This will reduce the shock overall length to 280.5mm. After measuring the swingarm length, fully extended swingarm position, and adjusting for the shock length, it looks like the shortest version will move the rear axle upward in its arc 59mm. If used in combination with raising the front fork tubes in the triple tree to equal the rear might be a great starting point for my daughter. To get additional clearance under the handlerbars, a set of additional spacers could be made to raise the handlebar clamps. With the factory bolt on each side, there is enough thread to make a 5mm spacer without replacing the M10x65mm bolt with a longer unit.

More to come.
 
#42 ·
Update to the progress for lowering the rear of the G310R. To help do this change a little safer, I created a spring compressor tool from some 25mm plate aluminum I had on hand along with two 300mm sections of 1/2"-13 threaded rod along with the nuts and washers. I bored out the holes to fit each end of the shock with the deeper pocket to capture the spring.



This tool allows me to safely compress the spring enough to remove the retaining washer from the keeper.





After the retaining washer is removed, you will need a 19mm to loosen the jam nut against the bottom clevis. I was mistaken about the thread pitch prior. It is actually M14x1.25mm. The mounting depth for the factory clevis is 17.5mm deep. Within the photo below are, from left to right: The factory clevis, (47.5mm tall to the center of the bushing), my first prototype (32.5mm tall) and the smallest size (27.0mm tall).



This will reduce the shock overall length to 280.5mm. After measuring the swingarm length, fully extended swingarm position, and adjusting for the shock length, it looks like the shortest version will move the rear axle upward in its arc 59mm. If used in combination with raising the front fork tubes in the triple tree to equal the rear might be a great starting point for my daughter. To get additional clearance under the handlerbars, a set of additional spacers could be made to raise the handlebar clamps. With the factory bolt on each side, there is enough thread to make a 5mm spacer without replacing the M10x65mm bolt with a longer unit.

More to come.
This is amazing work! - I want to do exactly the same thing myself.
My bike is due in the next few days, so I like to prepare the bits in advance.
Would you be happy to share a quick drawing of the selected rod end please? also the compression tool if possible? This short-arse would be eternally grateful! 🤣
 
#13 ·
With the 40mm Wilber’s suspension kit, it replaces the front fork springs and rear shock so geometry is maintained and the ride is better than stock. We are expecting the cornering lean to be reduced due to lowering. I really like the DIY option presented in this thread but my engineering and mechanics ability are not up to the test.
 
#14 ·
After cutting the two different sized units, I decided to try the 32.5mm version. This reduces the shock overall length by 15.5mm, equating to a 40.0mm change in the total extended swing arc length. Along with a raising the front fork tube in the triple tree 22.3mm, up from 9mm factory, allows my 153cm tall daughter to straddle, and stop safely with both feet touching on the G310R.

Upcoming changes to help make the bike more comfortable are a set of ProTaper Yamaha Mini bars, and a set of adjustable levers. I tried my RideIt adjustable levers from the Honda Grom. The clutch is a close fit while the brake lever is completely different on how the end of the hydraulic piston connects with the lever. The piston has a ball tip which requires a dimpled surface for an interface. There are several older BMW's which use this kind of lever arrangement. I believe I can modify/machine the correct fit. If not, there is a complete set of levers and lever perches, replacing the current units for $50 on amazon.
 
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#15 ·
We picked up my wife's motorcycle and she is very happy with the Wilbers suspension lowering kit and new Akrapovic exhaust.

Seat height is now 28.5 with the BMW lowered seat. It rides like a dream. The suspension feels better than the stock.

Exhaust note on the Akrapovic is AMAZING. These two upgrades have made it a different bike and she loves it!
 

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#22 ·
Wife happy - you happy.


The picture you have posted shows quite good how everything looks like.
The bike is not 'out of proportion'.


Question(s);
Did Wilbers also adjusted the front suspension ?
What did you do with the levers ?


PS: lets 'talk' on one thread !
 
#23 ·
Answers:
1. Yes. Wilbers 40mm lowered suspension kit is both rear shock and replacement fork springs/fork oil. According to my BMW dealer, it’s the same approach that the low suspension BMW F700GS uses. The geometry is maintained to the factory specification.

2. Puig adjustable levers. We are waiting on the back ordered clutch lever adapter which is due in March. We would go with any brand that was available but Puig seems the only option at this time. Evotech has been “in development” for months and doesn’t seem to be serious about getting their levers to market in a hurry.
 
#24 ·
Answers:
1. Yes. Wilbers 40mm lowered suspension kit is both rear shock and replacement fork springs/fork oil. According to my BMW dealer, it’s the same approach that the low suspension BMW F700GS uses. The geometry is maintained to the factory specification.

how many hours work on the frontfork?
wilbers is 52km /35miles away from me in germany i live almost on the border of germany:nerd:
i think this is the best solution for me.
or the front fork 1inch dropping trough the clamps.
 
#26 ·
You can google it on wilbers suspension.DE
I have ordered the 35mm lowering link from hyperpro
Its cheap ,because i dont know how long i keep the bike
So i ride it one season the cheapest way as possible
Only lowering the buy the engine guard and barkbusters.
 
#32 ·
Slightly silly yes... if you think about it, if you simply fit a shorter spring, if the shock body fully extends (going over a pothole for example) the space between the two spring seats will be longer than the spring - and in the case of the shock particularly, the danger is the spring will unseat [and not reseat properly], or worse, the spring seat at the eyelet end will become disconnected/fall out and the shock effectively collapse.

Basically if you want to shorten a spring, you also have to shorten the stroke length of the damper rod by the corresponding amount... some goes for when you go in the other direction - fitting a longer spring won't give you more travel, unless you also increase the stroke of the damper rod the same amount.

Jx
 
#33 ·
Oh, yes I see what you are saying....I was just trying to work things out.....as being shorter in inside leg !!! I can sit on the seat with both feet down no problem, but I thought it might be more beneficial.
to have the bike slightly lower to make it easier to **** your leg over !!
Also I read it is better to have a slightly lower bike for better road handling (ie lower centre of gravity)
They do that lowering device about £150 > that claims to lower the bike but I cannot see how it works and if that is all that is required ??
 
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