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Started to hear clunking/slapping noise when going over more severe bumps or many of the imperfections the streets of my town has to offer. Guessed it was the chain and looking at it clearly was too loose. Totally normal for a new chain to stretch after a few hundred KMs (more or less 650km in this case).

In the process I’ve noticed the chain adjustment gauge was already at the 6th mark (out of 9) before I touched anything. That seemed pretty far in the range for a bike out of the factory, like there’s only 1/3 of the range available for future adjustments… :frown2:

After the adjustment the arrow was passed the 6th mark but not reaching the 7th yet, we could say almost 6.5th :smile2: (Just to give you an idea for those who never did that it does not take a lot of movement on the rear wheel to see a change on the sag of the chain.)

Now back to a pleasant, no-slapping noise riding experience.
 

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I've got to say, you and heap are what I consider the "Athlean-X" of the G310R Forums. Whenever I find myself in trouble you always have something available that same day. I will take a look at the manual to see how I can adjust the chain, it shouldn't be that difficult!
 

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I have rust showing on the chain, I clean often with paraffin wonder if this is the cause ? or a batch of bad chains ?
 

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Do you clean the chain regularily, once every 3 refills?

I've had rust develop on the chain and I used a mix of 80% gas 20% wd-40 to clean the chain dry, and then applied chain oil to it and no rust ever since.
 

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unfortunately..its my mistake..haha..i'd just clean my chain only after 3000 km..before that i only apply chain lube on it every 1000 km
 

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I'll be adjusting my chain this weekend as well, have little over 600 Km and it looks way past the 40-50 mm of slack, also finding neutral got more difficult in the last couple of days...
 

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I'll be adjusting my chain this weekend as well, have little over 600 Km and it looks way past the 40-50 mm of slack, also finding neutral got more difficult in the last couple of days...
Assuming you're not done breaking in, you will see a big difference after the first service and oil change. So look forward to that.
 

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Interesting... I've not had rust on my chain, but I'm very diligent with cleaning it - plus most of the riding has been good weather, and when it's been wet I have managed to escape the torrential times (see comment below).

I clean my chain with WD40, I buy it in a 4 litre pack. Chain lube currently is Vertex Moto aerosol which I spray on and make sure that I've got the rollers and side plates really well covered. I do gently wipe off the excess after the solvent carrier has evaporated, but it still does flick off a bit which is a pain. I set the rear wheel up on a little pair of rollers, so its easy to rotate the wheel round.

I also check my chain tension often, but hardly ever need to adjust it. Checked it again today and it is still well within spec - last time I adjusted it was 2,200 km back (my bike has now 5,500 km on it). Obviously I am not a hard rider.... :smile2:

Commenting on our summer this year - its a very weird year, we have had two of the driest months ever (November & December last year), they were also much warmer than normal. Then in to January & February which have been absurdly hot and humid (some days close to 100% all day, at 28 °C) with record rainfall from some storms. So far the year to date accumulated rainfall total is 314 mm - we would not normally see that kind of total until towards the end of April. And we have a big ex tropical cyclone coming in this week...
 

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Interesting... I've not had rust on my chain, but I'm very diligent with cleaning it - plus most of the riding has been good weather, and when it's been wet I have managed to escape the torrential times (see comment below).

I clean my chain with WD40, I buy it in a 4 litre pack. Chain lube currently is Vertex Moto aerosol which I spray on and make sure that I've got the rollers and side plates really well covered. I do gently wipe off the excess after the solvent carrier has evaporated, but it still does flick off a bit which is a pain. I set the rear wheel up on a little pair of rollers, so its easy to rotate the wheel round.

I also check my chain tension often, but hardly ever need to adjust it. Checked it again today and it is still well within spec - last time I adjusted it was 2,200 km back (my bike has now 5,500 km on it). Obviously I am not a hard rider.... :smile2:

Commenting on our summer this year - its a very weird year, we have had two of the driest months ever (November & December last year), they were also much warmer than normal. Then in to January & February which have been absurdly hot and humid (some days close to 100% all day, at 28 °C) with record rainfall from some storms. So far the year to date accumulated rainfall total is 314 mm - we would not normally see that kind of total until towards the end of April. And we have a big ex tropical cyclone coming in this week...

Hey what's that double roller called? Definitely need one since I'm not getting a rear stand anytime soon.
 

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Hey what's that double roller called? Definitely need one since I'm not getting a rear stand anytime soon.
It's just called a Motorcycle Roller Stand - I got mine from a store called "Supercheap Auto" here
SCA Motorcycle Stand, Roller, Aluminium - Supercheap Auto

There seem to be plenty on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xmotorcycle+roller+stand.TRS0&_nkw=motorcycle+roller+stand&_sacat=0

Mine is nice and solid, very well made and all black anodised aluminium, has knurled rollers.
 

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If you are getting rust on your chain, it could be because of a lack of lube or water trapped in after cleaning.
Rule of thumb, clean with solvent and brush either a toothbrush or what I like is Tirox 360 chain brush and cleaner.
Rinse with water, not pressurized, wipe dry, ride it for 5 minutes or so to shed the water and warm up the chain,
then lube. Should lube the chain and wipe excess off, every third tank of fuel or thereabouts. Or sooner
if your getting in the dirt and mud.
 

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In the US both Harbor Freight and Cycle Gear have a rear wheel lift. Be sure to get the one to lift the swingarm, not to use spools. At HF it's around $40.00.
 

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My mech said not to use cleaner on this type of chain, to use PJ1 Blue label lube.

I bought a jack, it is an orange folding unit, (sorry I can't find the details...) that goes one end on the ground and the other on the rear axle, you push it forward and it lifts the rear wheel (after you use the Velcro to lock your front brake...) use it for the first time this past weekend and it worked GREAT. Took me all of 10 minutes to jack up and lube the chain.

THis is my first bike with a chain...
 

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Ive got double roller you can have L, waste of money I think, difficult to use you are better off with paddock stands at not much extra cost.
 

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Thanks Tick, I have looked after my chain even got `spring master link` so I can remove chain to clean and lube without messing about while chain is on the bike, its not exactly rust in places on the chain but ingrained dirt in patches seems to me factory fault but will try and remove with abraisive wheel in the drill .
 

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Hi, you don't need a rear stand. Just push a 10mm rod through the axle, align a stand (block of wood, car propstand) to the right side while the bike is sitting on the sidestand, lift the bike vertikal and push another stand on the left side. Done.
 

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Initially adjusted chain, had a 600 mile service where the dealer may have adjusted chain and have watched closely since. At 8500 miles (13,700 km about) the chain still falls within range. I lube with chain lube but do not try to clean unless there is a build up of grunge. While my experience is primarily with the chains on airheads, I have noticed when a chain starts to need frequent adjustments it is near end of life. Yes my airheads have two chains.
 
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