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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I have my 2017 G310R with 2500km and two day ago It didn't want to start right away but after 2 attempts it did, and ok the rest of the day.

Yesterday it started 1 of 10 attempts,

Today the bike doesn't start at all.

I've checked:
-The 3 relays in the back seem to be ok, I've test them apart
-All the fuses are ok
-The main relay in the front-right is also ok
-The battery has 12.35v
-The emergency buttom seems to be ok, I've opened it.

What I've done to the bike before the problem:
-1 month ago I made an shop install HID lights (Those that come with a little fan) instead of the road light that comes with the bike.
 

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Hi there

Some people in cold climates with 310's are experiencing cold start issues, and if this is when your bike isn't starting, then you could well be another owner unlucky to have the problem.

Read through this thread http://www.g310rforum.com/forum/337-2017-bmw-g310-r-gs-issues-problems/2577-cold-start-issue.html

Elsewhere on the forum (if you read around) you will find that low octane rated fuel can also cause starting problems, people have shifted from 91 to 95 or 98 RON and found the problem goes away.

Presumably the battery voltage you've measured is with the bike not running - 12.35 V seems a little low to me for a relatively new battery. Try getting a measurement of the battery voltage when you are cranking the engine - see what it drops down to, if less than 10 volts it may well be contributing to your problem.

Obviously though, assuming you bought this from a dealer, you should go back to them.
 

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I’ve used 98 for 99% of my time with this bike with the exception of one tank full which was 95 rating which is still in the bike. Since putting the 95 in it’s a bugger to start.
 

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For the 15 cents a litre difference in price from regular to premium grade fuel, the dollar and and a half a tank full is well worth it.
 

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As long as you're using fuel that is at the recommended octane rating, you get absolutely NO benefit from using a higher octane fuel - no better fuel economy, no more power - NADA. You're just spending more money than you have to. Sometimes it may even be detrimental.

It almost sounds like you got a tank of bad fuel - it does happen. I had a friend get some fuel that had water in it and he had basically the same experience. He drained the fuel from the tank, refilled with fresh fuel and all was good.

Regarding the battery voltage, lead/acid and AGM batteries should read 12.1 volts/cell at a full charge - or 12.6 volts with no load (key off). You should read a bit more than 14 volts across the battery with the engine running and being charged by the alternator.

I went down to check the voltages on mine, but it also didn't want to start. It's in an unheated garage and the temps have been between -5 & 5 C. Guess I'll go and read the cold start thread. :-(
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've measure the battery when the engine is off. I've read the cold start issue topic but my problem is not that the engine starts with difficulty. My problem is that nothing moves, not the relays, not the start engine, nothing :S

I've called a mechanic friend in the dealer of BMW MOTORRAD and said they've had a similar problem and it requires a reset of the CDI (Computer). And this can only be made with the BMW ISTA SOFTWARE.
 

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My problem is that nothing moves, not the relays, not the start engine, nothing...
Ah! I understand.

In one way this is good - as it is easy to diagnose and fix. The real problems are the intermittent ones that come and go and never seem to happen when a mechanic is watching.

Please let us know what happens.
 

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I've measure the battery when the engine is off. I've read the cold start issue topic but my problem is not that the engine starts with difficulty. My problem is that nothing moves, not the relays, not the start engine, nothing :S

I've called a mechanic friend in the dealer of BMW MOTORRAD and said they've had a similar problem and it requires a reset of the CDI (Computer). And this can only be made with the BMW ISTA SOFTWARE.
That's unfortunate, but.... call the dealer and tell them to come pick up the motorcycle.
That's what roadside assistance and warranty are for.
 
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I've measure the battery when the engine is off. I've read the cold start issue topic but my problem is not that the engine starts with difficulty. My problem is that nothing moves, not the relays, not the start engine, nothing :S
I assume you're in neutral while trying to start it ?
If you're in a gear, remember you need to pull the clutch lever and you can't have the side stand extended in that case.
Not saying you don't know the basic stuff, but sometimes worth to make sure it's not a simple thing like this!
Good luck.
 

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I have another possibly overlooked reason. And I am sorry if it is painfully obvious but did the KILL Switch accidentally get switched to OFF. I pushed mine one evening while cleaning and next morning spent five minutes trying to start the bike. Then I felt real dumb when I saw that switch in the kill position.
 

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Loose battery cable is what caused my no-start yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
PROBLEM SOLVED!,

I'll tell you what happened: 7 days ago, the bike started with no problems! I tested it the whole day and fine, and so on the next 4 days, everything went to normal, (No need to take it to the dealer) but 3 days ago while I was riding it, the bike died again and I almost crash, so I took it to a mechanic who has a BMW ICOM SCANNER (Not dealer), we ran the software and nothing, no errors found, BUT, when we saw the readings of the KILL SWITCH, it was always ACTIVE, even if we pushed it to DISABLE, so it was it, apparently the MAGNET of the KILL SWITCH is bad, I know, such an EASY solution, well, I'm relieve now and happy, I'll just get another switch.

Hope it helps you!
 

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As long as you're using fuel that is at the recommended octane rating, you get absolutely NO benefit from using a higher octane fuel - no better fuel economy, no more power - NADA. You're just spending more money than you have to. Sometimes it may even be detrimental.

It almost sounds like you got a tank of bad fuel - it does happen. I had a friend get some fuel that had water in it and he had basically the same experience. He drained the fuel from the tank, refilled with fresh fuel and all was good.

Regarding the battery voltage, lead/acid and AGM batteries should read 12.1 volts/cell at a full charge - or 12.6 volts with no load (key off). You should read a bit more than 14 volts across the battery with the engine running and being charged by the alternator.

I went down to check the voltages on mine, but it also didn't want to start. It's in an unheated garage and the temps have been between -5 & 5 C. Guess I'll go and read the cold start thread. :-(
I am having issues to start my bike lately. All started a couple weeks ago when I was on a camping trip. We arrived super late and was around 32F/0C. I parked the bike and set up camp after an hour or so I decided to move the bike. They bike started no problem, but died and didn't start again. I decided to go to bed and take care of it in the morning.

Next morning the bike didn't start at all so we had to jump start. Well long story short, after this event every time I don't use my bike for more than 1 day it won't start even when plugged in the battery tender. The battery voltage reads 12.8/12.9 with no load. As soon as I turn the key voltage goes down to 11.8/11.6. The battery is charging since the voltage goes up to 14.5v once the engine is running.

I am guessing my battery is bad but I feel like this thing should last more than 1 year. What do you guys think?
 

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No start or no starter spin? If no starter spin loose battery connections. Sounds very like a battery problem otherwise. Check with dealer, battery may be warranted.
 

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Bad battery or bad battery cable / wiring connections I would guess. Best have the battery etc checked.
 
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