I suppose that most folks have not yet gotten enough miles to require brake pad replacement.
I installed organic carbon pads about 5K miles ago on another bike; a Suzuki GZ250. The pads are holding up very well so far.
Supposedly the organic carbon material does not last quite as long as the sintered type pads that seem to be original equipment on just about every bike. But they are so much quieter than the original sintered type; none of that grinding sandpaper noise that the sintered pads make. And the braking is great. Very powerful deceleration and not grabby...they have a great engagement and you just stop!. And they do not seem to chew up the rotor like the sintered type pads; the front rotor is better looking now than it was 5 K miles ago when it had 27K miles on it.
I noticed that EBC makes organic carbon pads for the G310 rear disk but are not yet producing front pads for the G310. I hope that will happen in the next couple of years as the G310s become more popular. The organic carbon pads just have a much smoother feel! Just my humble opinion!
I seem to recall that my pads are the carbon graphite XX material but I see that EBC has the carbon X line which may be similar. Not sure.
Been using EBC for decades. MANY options. Generally speaking, you do not want racing or other "High Performance" pads. If you're riding the G310 to the point where you need them, you bought the wrong bike. IMHO.
I saw this on the EBC (UK) website and thought that it might be very good advice for new owners of the G310 bikes.
EBC makes brake pads and rotors for automobiles as well as motorcycles so this information on how to break in or "bed in" new pads is generic advice for disk brakes on both automobiles as well as motorcycles. Note that it may take over 1500 miles (2400 km) to get good brake performance on new brake pads. Careful break in of new pads will lead to longer life and improved stopping power. So realize that if you are not happy with braking performance on a new bike, it will get better with miles so be patient and follow good break in procedures as follows.
Bedding in EBC pads In Street use situations …
Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied. Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.
Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes.To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.
A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place. NEVER attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction,this will only make things worse by taking the pads “Off-Flat” and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation.
I don't know why so many reviewers say the brakes aren't that great. I find them very good and effective. I particularly like the rear brake, it really works well and I typically apply both at the same time, when on other bikes the rear is usually much less effective. For me there is absolutely no need to try out anything aftermarket/other than stock.
When I picked up my bike from the dealers I found the brakes lacked feel and weren't that impressed.
I changed the levers to adjustable ones and now they feel great. I can only assume the factory standard levers are to far away from a natural reach and maybe the pivot vs load is all wrong. I only use two fingers now to brake so all is good and that I changed nothing else and now they are great.
nothing to do with bedding in period as I bought my bike used with 900 miles on it so would have had plenty of time for that.
I.m not really happy with front brakes of my G310GS
I replaced oem front brake lever with adjustable one, this improved slightly, but the next step is to replace the pads, but will wait up to 1500km (now just 750)
I'm considering brembo's sintered "red" ones. However brembo works fine with brembo brake disks,
Any idea about the producer of oem brake disk and pads?
I'm also following long test (50000km) being carried out by motorradonline.de, they experienced many issues with brakes, they replaced both caliper and pump.
I found a company that makes a suspension lowering kit for a G310R.
I have just been in contact with EBC and they don't list our bikes, but they do list KTM Duke 390 (4T). I have read/heard that the brake pads should be identical, can anyone confirm?
A link to the KTM compatible pads with measurements...
Does anyone else have this problem? My rear brake foot lever sets a good 2 inches (12mm) below my foot. My foot is almost vertical when I press it. I've been looking for a spacer or something to bring it up but I haven't been able to find anything?
Since the first service I've noticed an issue with the front brake where it seems to loose friction when lightly braking using only the front brake as the wheel rotates.
Kinda like... Slowing, slowing, slowing, not slowing, slowing, slowing, slowing, not slowing...
I've sprayed the disc down...
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