BMW G310 R/GS Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was thinking that with stiffer rear shock, the chain tension can be less than manual suggests, since the swingarm does not bounce that much up and down as with the oem shock? I don't like to have the chain so loose and making so much noise as it does. In Tiger 800 xr, 25mm is suggested and it is too an adventure bike. Any thoughts? I can understand that if one is doing some serious off-roading, more travel in the chain is needed. But with regular riding, what is the point? I don't think it is good for the life of the chain and sprockets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Although the tractive shock is stiffer sprung that does not mean that the chain can be any tighter. The swinging arm will still move the same distance so it is not possible to have it any tighter without putting XS pressure on the sprockets
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
... stress on counter shaft & its bearings as well, which on the long term could translate in more lines on the repair bill!

... in the worst event, a tight chain could snap when suspension fully loaded, yet causing random damages to the surroundings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
thanks! so I will keep 40mm chain sag, and live with the noise:)

what is your experience with the stock chain quality? does it need frequent adjustments?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
thanks! so I will keep 40mm chain sag, and live with the noise:)

what is your experience with the stock chain quality? does it need frequent adjustments?
I remember adjusting it at around 1000KM, then 1 or 2 other times not sure exactly, and I'm at 4000km or so on the odometer. I would say the quality is pretty much standard and compares to stock chains that you you find on other bikes, not better not worse.

I know the manual calls for replacement at 20,000km but one thing I've noticed is that even brand new, the adjustments were already a bit far in their travel, so when that chain stretches, it might come at the end of the adjusters before it's really due for replacement. We'll see.

What I also remember noticing is that their procedure for adjusting can be a bit misleading. If your chain is very very slack, it is possible it hits the swingarm when you take the measurement and that can be confusing. When you push the chain down, and then up and take the measurement, it can seems like you're OK and you have the 40-50mm clearance, but if you picture the swingarm would not be in the way and that the chain could go higher, then the actual clearance is maybe 60mm in reality. It's definitively too loose but taking the measurement it seems you are in the prescribed clearance. Sorry I'm not sure I explain it properly. I'll pay attention next time and maybe come with better words on this :)

Also remember the bike needs to be supported by its sidestand with no weight on the bike when measuring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I remember adjusting it at around 1000KM, then 1 or 2 other times not sure exactly, and I'm at 4000km or so on the odometer. I would say the quality is pretty much standard and compares to stock chains that you you find on other bikes, not better not worse.

I know the manual calls for replacement at 20,000km but one thing I've noticed is that even brand new, the adjustments were already a bit far in their travel, so when that chain stretches, it might come at the end of the adjusters before it's really due for replacement. We'll see.

What I also remember noticing is that their procedure for adjusting can be a bit misleading. If your chain is very very slack, it is possible it hits the swingarm when you take the measurement and that can be confusing. When you push the chain down, and then up and take the measurement, it can seems like you're OK and you have the 40-50mm clearance, but if you picture the swingarm would not be in the way and that the chain could go higher, then the actual clearance is maybe 60mm in reality. It's definitively too loose but taking the measurement it seems you are in the prescribed clearance. Sorry I'm not sure I explain it properly. I'll pay attention next time and maybe come with better words on this :)

Also remember the bike needs to be supported by its sidestand with no weight on the bike when measuring.
Actually, the way you measure the slag is not in the middle, but closer to the rear wheel, where the chain does not touch the swingarm. If I remember correctly, there is a drawing how to do it in the manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Actually, the way you measure the slag is not in the middle, but closer to the rear wheel, where the chain does not touch the swingarm. If I remember correctly, there is a drawing how to do it in the manual.
Yeah the manual says midway between front and rear sprockets. I was not implying it needs to touch the swingarm, just that if your chain is real loose, it might touch the swingarm and give a possibly wrong interpretation of the gap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yeah the manual says midway between front and rear sprockets. I was not implying it needs to touch the swingarm, just that if your chain is real loose, it might touch the swingarm and give a possibly wrong interpretation of the gap.
yes, to be exact, between the roller and rear sprocket, where swingarm is not on the way. real loose means more than 50mm, where one has to tighten the chain anyway.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top