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Most crash bar installations use the engine mount bolt that is located very close the the radiator hose. The bolt is challenging to access with the hose in the way. So my question is can you remove the bolt with out removing the radiator hose? I am trying to avoid damaging the hose. Thanks for any input.
 

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Most crash bar installations use the engine mount bolt that is located very close the the radiator hose. The bolt is challenging to access with the hose in the way. So my question is can you remove the bolt with out removing the radiator hose? I am trying to avoid damaging the hose. Thanks for any input.
See:
 

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I have just installed Givi engine bars TN5126
I really like them and they look very solid and substantial. Easy enough to install - However they come with line drawing as an installation guide.
If anyone is thinking of fitting these, contact me and I will let you know the best way to fit and where to start. Because the installation guide does not provide.
I got my from Motocard, excellent service and was shipped from Spain by UPS, arrived when they stated, with full tracking.
 

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Givi crash bars

Hi Tukemeister
I ordered the Givi engine bars TN5126 too.
They're due to be delivered this week, so any guidance for installation gratefully received.
Thanks !
 

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Most crash bar installations use the engine mount bolt that is located very close the the radiator hose. The bolt is challenging to access with the hose in the way. So my question is can you remove the bolt with out removing the radiator hose? I am trying to avoid damaging the hose. Thanks for any input.
YES!! i pushed the hose in by hand enough to get the bolt out and then back in.
 

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The Givi bars are pretty easy to be honest. But the fitting instructions are poor, just drawings.
The water hose I thought was going to be hardest, but it wasn't just push to one side, I was told afterwards that it would make the hose more pliable if I'd warmed the bike up, but I didn't and it was not a problem.
Best if you can have the bike upright, I used a rear paddock stand.
Start from right side of bike (water hose side) makes it easy to manoeuvre bars to locate the supplied bolts to get past the hose.
Then locate the long bolt that goes at rear of bars. the front of the bars locate the little jointing tube.
Don't tighten everything up yet, just finger tight at moment - My Boss an engineer say there is only 3 types of tightness, finger, hand and f.....g tight.
Left side of bike, offer it up and locate on the bolts. Once positioned tighten everything up properly. The only difficult bit is tightening the back part (long supplied bolt). You need very long arms or get someone to hold a spanner at one side of bike and you tighten the other.
 

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The Givi bars are pretty easy to be honest. But the fitting instructions are poor, just drawings.
The water hose I thought was going to be hardest, but it wasn't just push to one side, I was told afterwards that it would make the hose more pliable if I'd warmed the bike up, but I didn't and it was not a problem.
Best if you can have the bike upright, I used a rear paddock stand.
Start from right side of bike (water hose side) makes it easy to manoeuvre bars to locate the supplied bolts to get past the hose.
Then locate the long bolt that goes at rear of bars. the front of the bars locate the little jointing tube.
Don't tighten everything up yet, just finger tight at moment - My Boss an engineer say there is only 3 types of tightness, finger, hand and f.....g tight.
Left side of bike, offer it up and locate on the bolts. Once positioned tighten everything up properly. The only difficult bit is tightening the back part (long supplied bolt). You need very long arms or get someone to hold a spanner at one side of bike and you tighten the other.
I am looking at those crash bars at the moment as they look the business and as far as i can see is they do not connect to the engine in any way . my dilemma is the low bottom bolt , i am looking at putting a centre stand on the bike , do you know if that long bolt goes through where the centre stand is bolted ,as i have found the line drawings online at the Givi site and they are no help at all ...I hope to have the centre stand fitted tomorrow so if a photo would help you to answer i will take some
 

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I am looking at those crash bars at the moment as they look the business and as far as i can see is they do not connect to the engine in any way . my dilemma is the low bottom bolt , i am looking at putting a centre stand on the bike , do you know if that long bolt goes through where the centre stand is bolted ,as i have found the line drawings online at the Givi site and they are no help at all ...I hope to have the centre stand fitted tomorrow so if a photo would help you to answer i will take some
I looked at the installation instructions for the SW-MOTECH center stand. They add a new bolt to the bike on the underside, using holes that already exist in the frame.

This Givi crash bar requires you to remove a bolt, and then insert a replacement. Hence, it is not using the same bolt location as the center stand.
 

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Can you install the SW-MOTECH skid plate with these Givi crash bars? I'm worried about the clearance at the back edge of the skid plate near the brake and gear shifter.
 

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Can you install the SW-MOTECH skid plate with these Givi crash bars? I'm worried about the clearance at the back edge of the skid plate near the brake and gear shifter.
I dont know i am more interested in getting engine crash bars on first then worry about the skid pan later , i dont think i will be going for the sw motech one as i am sure there are more out there that will do ....the givi i do like as it is secured to the frame and not the engine
 

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Hi,
You're working it, DevilNev.. Your all over this forum !
I just attached my Givi bars yesterday, so here's the hot scoop...
Bash plate-
I really didn't like any of the flat, cut-and-welded plate skid plates. The only one I'd seen that I like was BMW's own version, which is just SOooo much better looking. It's a 4mm ( yes, you read that right ) thick, die-formed, single piece of ally, which bolts to the bottom of the engine cases, exactly like the original piece of plastic 'toot'.
Givi bars-
Here's the secret.. You can attach the bars with the bash plate in place, BUT then you won't be able to get the bash plate off without taking the bars off again !.. Very frustrating.
If you attach the bars first and then try to put the bash plate back on, you will only succeed in taking chunks out of the crash-bar paint ( like I did ! ). There isn't enough space to get the bash plate over the rear mounting studs. Solution- Just cut the rear bolt holes through to the back of the bash plate to make open slots. You can guide these around the rear mounting studs in the engine casing, and over the back of the crash bars. Then you can slip the front holes over the front mounting studs. Now you have ( for my money ) the coolest looking bash plate with the coolest looking crash bars !
 

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Hi,
You're working it, DevilNev.. Your all over this forum !
I just attached my Givi bars yesterday, so here's the hot scoop...
Bash plate-
I really didn't like any of the flat, cut-and-welded plate skid plates. The only one I'd seen that I like was BMW's own version, which is just SOooo much better looking. It's a 4mm ( yes, you read that right ) thick, die-formed, single piece of ally, which bolts to the bottom of the engine cases, exactly like the original piece of plastic 'toot'.
Givi bars-
Here's the secret.. You can attach the bars with the bash plate in place, BUT then you won't be able to get the bash plate off without taking the bars off again !.. Very frustrating.
If you attach the bars first and then try to put the bash plate back on, you will only succeed in taking chunks out of the crash-bar paint ( like I did ! ). There isn't enough space to get the bash plate over the rear mounting studs. Solution- Just cut the rear bolt holes through to the back of the bash plate to make open slots. You can guide these around the rear mounting studs in the engine casing, and over the back of the crash bars. Then you can slip the front holes over the front mounting studs. Now you have ( for my money ) the coolest looking bash plate with the coolest looking crash bars !
a couple of photos would be useful , i will look up the BMW skid Plate as i have not seen that one yet
 

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Here's the link to BMW's pic.
i managed to find it here in the bmw 2020 catalogue here file:///C:/Users/richa/Downloads/BMW_Motorrad_Original_BMW_Motorrad_Accessories_Catalogue_2020_en_1.pdf.asset.1582551450706%20(1).pdf i was more interested in a photo of the slot you had to do for removal , as it would be helpful for me to know what to expect and what tools will be required like a small angle grinder
 

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Sorry, I can't get to it right now due to the lockdown. But I just used a hacksaw, and then filed the slots smooth. The cuts were under 3/4'' long ( x 4 ) and took under half an hour. Not exactly high tech. Then the cleaning up of rough edges, which is down to how fussy you are....
 
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