12v battery? Run Motoscan to see if there are any codes.
Death without a cause
Hi all, I've had to replace the stator on my 2017 gs310, it now charges great, unfortunately the bike now cuts out after 10mins. It can be restarted but the running time before cutting out gets shorter and shorter....any help would be appreciated, cheers
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12v batt as been tested and ok, motoscan showing no faults 🙈
Is it an aftermarket stator or OEM/BMW stator, I wonder if it's a bad stator.
Aftermarket, but i tested it with meter and charging 14v+ 🤷♂️
No fuel or no spark. But something is cutting out. I presume the air filter is clean.
Full of fuel, but might try new spark plug just incase 👍and new air filter fitted
I was thinking more in the area of fuel-pump cutting out and/or fuel injector. But pull the spark plug out and check it's condition. Post pictures of the plug when you get it out, it may tell us something.
Could be, but only after ten mins of running, im thinkin that somethings getting warm or hot to cause it, but what ???
This condition didn't exist prior to stator replacement, and began immediately following the replacement?
Or, your mention of stator replacement is not directly related to the appearance of symptoms?
Edit: I ask because if this appeared exactly when the stator was replaced then it stands to reason there is an open in the stator that grows with heat.
Or, your mention of stator replacement is not directly related to the appearance of symptoms?
Edit: I ask because if this appeared exactly when the stator was replaced then it stands to reason there is an open in the stator that grows with heat.
Thanks for your input, i dont know how I'd test for an open tho as i image it would cool down pretty quick and close up, maybe buy another and fit to eliminate it...dont know either if you need to plug the ecu in, to tell it that the stator as been changed ???
Could the regulator be acting out and over charging? That would be heat/time related. Ride with a volt meter strapped on. EG what failed on original stator? These run on fine edge of over charge with a high spec charge voltage, 14.9 deemed ok by BMW mine stayed close to that even after dealer replaced original which was at 15+v My battery would get hot on longer rides , I didn’t Hold out for long battery life, bike exited my life before found out.
FYI, AGM batteries need a slightly higher voltage than standard flooded lead acid battery. Usually in the 14.7-14.8v range depending on temperature, SOC.
I had to modify the alternator on my 2001 Subaru Forester because I started running with AGM, and noticed the battery was not getting charged adequately.
I had to modify the alternator on my 2001 Subaru Forester because I started running with AGM, and noticed the battery was not getting charged adequately.
Had an old outboard that would start acting up when it got hot, turned out to be a worn out grommet between the cooling jacket and the rest of the engine allowing exhaust to enter the cooling jacket. Maybe check your temperature as you are riding to see what it gets up to when it stops.
As you see already in this thread, there's a number of things can cause your symptoms.Thanks for your input, i dont know how I'd test for an open tho as i image it would cool down pretty quick and close up, maybe buy another and fit to eliminate it...dont know either if you need to plug the ecu in, to tell it that the stator as been changed ???
I like to work through logical troubleshooting steps from most likely to least likely.
That's why I was asking if this issue appeared exactly when you swapped stators.
Let's say for example you didn't have this problem until you filled your gas tank with fuel, and that's exactly when the problem began. Then I would have said let's start by seeing if you overfilled (which can cause this exact symptom).
Rather than chasing 20 possible things, I like to start with "what happened right before this problem showed up?"
Then began my troubleshooting around that.
To answer your question, no you don't need to register a new stator with the ECU.
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