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Discussion Starter #1
The recommended 15w50 Advantec Pro is $15 US a quart. While it's got a Jaso MA2 rating, it's only semi synthetic. I can buy Amsoil full synthetic 10w40 for about half the price. 10w40 is universally rated for ambient temps to 100F
When I ride it's maybe 50 to 90 degrees. I will change the oil and filter every 3000 miles as I think 6000 miles is too much for a small engine running between 4000 and 7000 rpm in daily use plus up to redline for passing.
I know at temps under 50 degrees the tranny shifts slicker with 10w40
I also want an oil in my crankcase that reaches 212F so that the condensation is removed
 

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Not stirring the oil pot, but I (others before me) wouldn't recommend full synthetic oils be used unless the manual calls for it or until ~10k miles.

Confirmed with Motul that 5100 meets MA2. It's a good semi that matches the bike's oil requirements. $30-35 a gallon or so?

I, too, change all the oils in my motorbikes well before they're "due."
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Never had a problem with full or semi synthetics. As long as I use the proper viscosity and MA/MA2 jaso rating I've never had a clutch slip issue, oil leaks, or oil consumption. Since motorcycles, especially small ones spend a lot of time at sixty to eighty percent if red line I'll stick with Amsoil 10w40 metric motorcycle specific oil.
 

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i usually run dino for the break-in period then switch to synthetic. as mentioned, as long as it meets the jaso ma2 ratings, there will not be any slip with the clutch.
 

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I've used the Shell Rotella T6 synthetic on all my bikes. Many forums have argued for and against about every oil out there, and nowhere have I read anyone having an issue with it. It's $22 for a gallon jug at Walmart.
 

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Service showing on dash, had run in service, ive done 1500 miles total, one year old, BM want nearly £200 to change engine oil/filter + brake fluid, I intended changing oil/filter at 3000 miles my self, 6000 or one year seems at cross purpose for oil/filter.
 

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Probably the only way is to buy the BMW-specific OBD code reader/clearer. Only one or two in the market? Or can generic OBD code readers clear the service light?
 

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Not to throw a wrench into this discussion but are any of aware that BMW uses a DLC ( Diamond Like Carbon ) coating on the valve train and piston wrist pins etc. DLC coatings have been found to have adverse ware when used with oils containing amounts of Molybdenum. The Advantec BMW uses is specially formulated without Molybdenum to ensure no coating failure. Be sure to check any other oil you may use as this is the same coating that is used on the RR1200 that have had some engine failures due to coating failure and was directly related to the oil being used. This could adversely effect your warranty.
No I have no affiliation with BMW or the oil they use.
This was brought up due to a paper I was reading recently ( you can search it if curious )
Wear Mechanisms of Hydrogenated DLC in Oils Containing MoDTC

It has been shown that Molybdenum in oil has been shown to be harmful and cause excess ware with DLC coatings.
 

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I looked on youtube at some clever Indian guys on their bikes deleting the service warning but they don't seem to have got round to the 310 yet !
 

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15W50 engine oil is probably too thick for that that bike, unless you live in a very hot climate. When the temperature drops down, 10w40 or 10w50 are preferable. the first number indicates viscosity of the oil when it is cold. my belief is that people have cold starting problems because the oil is too thick. I would also use good quality synthetic oil after 1000k, like Motul, or Mobil 1. this will extend the life of an engine, and does not need to be changed so often.
 

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The MotoScan android app with suitable bluetooth adapter will sort your 'service' interval reminder. You can test it for free, but you'll need to buy the licence to fully interact .
 
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