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Discussion Starter #1
I am used to riding old British bikes and am concerned that my riding style is causing me problems. North Yorkshire and very undulating roads are just across the river. I went for my first 50mile run the other day. After 5 miles I was riding down a road that felt basically flat, in 6th gear (I have a habit of moving through all the gears as soon as I can) doing about 40/45mph when the engine staled. A bit of a panic because I could not change into a lower gear before I stopped although the engine would rev between gears. This happened again a few moments later but then I had 45 miles of very pleasurable touring. My question then, is my riding style (too high a gear) causing the stall, could there have been a simple glitch in the fuel supply or something ales?
 

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stalling

over a bump ?
Side stand switch (cutting engine)


or poor connection to TPS ?


or one of those things that probably never going to happen again.


May come up on fault code read !
 

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Yes, based on my limited (Royal Enfield) Brit bike experience, I'd say you were probably lugging the engine, and it cut out. The HP sweet spot on these bikes is between 5500 and 7500 RPM. So I rarely allow the revs to drop below 5000, and don't really expect to get much power out of the engine until above 6000. And I'm usually running in 4th gear when I'm at 45 mph/72 kph. This engine likes to be revved high, and it will do it all day long. It took me a while to get used to that.
 

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Unless you were riding down a steep hill, I'd say that you were probably using too high a gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks folks, it is clear that I need to change my riding style, after 50+ years riding it is not easy! But I do like the bike and find it very comfortable and manageable. I have had BMWs in the past but of the 2 cylinder big flywheel variety.
 

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I can run the bike in 6th at 60ish kph on the flat no issues and I'm 112kg at the moment... So that shouldn't have been the problem, something else would have caused the issue.

Not sure what it was, but unless you where doing 40kph in 6th I doubt that was the problem.
 

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I usually shift to 6th around 35 mph and cruise there. The bike should NOT stall under those circumstances; it would not have much power , but it should not just die. I would get codes read, and keep a close eye on this, it's not normal (the way you describe what happened anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cees, that tends to be the way I ride! My bike has been recalled to have the brakes checked and is booked into the local, very competent dealer next Monday. I will ask them to look to see if there is an issue.
 

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I usually shift to 6th around 35 mph and cruise there. The bike should NOT stall under those circumstances; it would not have much power , but it should not just die. I would get codes read, and keep a close eye on this, it's not normal (the way you describe what happened anyway).
Wow. I tried that today. At 35 mph in 6th my bike was on the edge of a cough stall the entire time I kept it at that speed. And I'd never be able to accelerate with that ratio. Do you downshift every time you need to go any faster than 35? Have you changed your sprockets from the stock ones?
 

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Funny this thread. Last weekend I was driving in my 2011 BMW Z4 35i, a beast of a car with 306 HP and a DCT 7-speed getrag auto gearbox. When in regular (not sport) mode, wouldn't you know that car also gets to 7th speed at around 35mph?
Back to the G310R, it is totally stock, no changed sprockets. It hums along very nicely in 6th gear at 35 mph, no hint of running difficulties let alone stalling. If I have to accellerate hard from there, sure I downshift once or twice, but not when it's a slow accelleration.
Perhaps the GS' gearing is different, although if anything I would expect that to be even higher, not lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I took bike to dealer and explained that bike stalled at 40mph on flat road and then became stationary before I could select a low gear. They ran diagnostics and found nothing but confirmed that my bike was to be recalled for replacement brake callipers.
On way to dealers this morning, going down a steep hill at approx. 40 mph, about the same distance from home as before, the brakes came on by themselves and we did an emergency stop into the roadside. I nearly went over the bars but held on tightly enough. The bike would not move (i.e. could not be pushed) because the brake(s) were on so tight, After a few seconds I was able to ride again and the same thing happened. I then rode the remaining mile to the dealer, very slowly.
So the bike is at the dealers but they do not know what the problem is of if the recall is connected. Since my original letter from the dealer said 'carry on riding' I am very concerned. Anybody know anything?
 

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It’s a fairly small engine. I had a Honda CB250RS last year, and it was the first time l had ridden a bike since 2007.
It took some time to get used to the fact that the “power” didn’t come in until about 5,000rpm
And below 4,000rpm in the higher gears would risk the engine stuttering

I now have a Duke 390, it’s like the BMW in that it’s got a single cylinder engine

It doesn’t like being below 4,000 rpm although it will just about go to 3,000 in the higher gears

Best keep the revs up. Also l now have 900 miles on the bike and the engine has got smoother, initially it was very difficult to ride at slow speed due to the engine not wanting to run at low RPM

As with my bike, the BMW will likely improve with more miles.

Also the engine runs lean due to emissions and a simple fuelling box such as “Rapid Bike Easy” (or similar, that’s what l fitted to mine) made a big improvement to low RPM running.
 

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Mikejg,


If the letter from the dealership said 'carry on riding', then it shouldn't be a dangerous issue related to the recall your describing. However, the bike is relatively new and I have seen assembly issues on my own machine that had to be corrected before being safe to ride 100%. Please take your machine to the dealer and explain all your concerns, ensure they check the cable and brake line routing front and back, as well as the freedom of movement in the triple tree and handlebars. All BMWs have ABS so make sure they perform a brake check calibration in the computer system and by all means ride the bike hard around the parking lot or dealership neighborhood before taking it home. Best of luck


Jonathan
 

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Im sure your `doing right` mate with your experience, im sure as I do, don't let the engine `labour` or over rev it, just ride easy and hills up or down sort the box out to suit a safe speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The issue turned out to be corroded front brakes causing them to be operating all the time and coming on hard automatically when hot. My local dealer has sorted everything very much to my satisfaction and I now have a bike that operates properly, in particular I have no stalling issue because the brakes are not on all the time.
The bike and presumably others of the same era has subsequently been recalled, a little late for me. I should not have been advised to continue to ride (bit I am confident that the dealer did not know a recall was necessary). I think this exposes a real issue with a large dealer who typically operate with reception staff, the lone trader at the bottom of my garden asked me lots of questions when I described my experiences and diagnosed a brake problem, I feel sure that the large dealer mechanic used the approved diagnostic tester which showed nothing.
I now have a very much more pleasant motorcycle and look forward to getting out and around at any opportunity.
 

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Ah, so the bike was “stalling” because the brakes were coming on by themselves, or staying on after you operated them lightly.

That would do it. Glad you got it sorted in the end.
 
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