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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dealer tried to make it sound like 45 minutes to an hour and a severe pain to DIY the turn signal fix.

Issue, if you haven't run into it, is the factory screwed up and placed regular nuts, with no lock washer, no nylon, no anything to keep the nuts from rattling loose. Which they are keen to do.

Dealer was definitely blowing smoke to try and get me to pay them. The actual work was very simple and I have no idea what they meant about the bodywork being a big pain. Nope.


 

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While the work is DIY doable, I don't think you're being fair to the dealer. I've disassembled that area to install an R&G Tail Tidy and 45 minutes shop time to replace the turn signal sounds about right to me and the long way you took seems to confirm that. The dealers characterization of the work as a pain is also spot on when compared to other bikes they work on where the nut is already accessible.
 

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While the work is DIY doable, I don't think you're being fair to the dealer. I've disassembled that area to install an R&G Tail Tidy and 45 minutes shop time to replace the turn signal sounds about right to me and the long way you took seems to confirm that. The dealers characterization of the work as a pain is also spot on when compared to other bikes they work on where the nut is already accessible.
The discussion was not about shop time. I wasn't chatting with service.

I was at parts and the general manager of the dealership strolled over to talk. They know I DIY and he was saying "good luck with this one, you're going to wish you'd dropped it off with us" as he and the parts guy chuckled. I'm a regular, we all get along, and it was said in a friendly manner. But they both then went on to infer something about the G310R tail end is especially complex and challenging.

It wasn't. I'd encourage anyone that's handy to DIY this.
 

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But they both then went on to infer something about the G310R tail end is especially complex and challenging. It wasn't. I'd encourage anyone that's handy to DIY this.
I agree anyone handy can DIY this and I agree they underestimated your DIY-abilities, but I disagree re your "It wasn't"..."complex or challenging". On other bikes, you can reach the nut and minutes later you are done. On the 310, what you went through (which I've done also), while easily DIY-able, was complex and challenging in comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I agree anyone handy can DIY this and I agree they underestimated your DIY-abilities, but I disagree re your "It wasn't"..."complex or challenging". On other bikes, you can reach the nut and minutes later you are done. On the 310, what you went through (which I've done also), while easily DIY-able, was complex and challenging in comparison.
If turning 14 H5s and 6 H6s is complex and challenging. 🤷‍♂️

I wouldn't have wasted time trying to fish, except they made it seem some deep mystery was waiting beneath the plastic. Nope.
 

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If turning 14 H5s and 6 H6s is complex and challenging. 🤷‍♂️
Just more so than a single nut. 🔩

P.S. On are related note, it boggles my engineering design background that it takes 21 fasteners to change out a turn signal that sticks out so far, that it's bound to hit the ground in an off-road drop. I broke one front and one rear during my NEBDR run. When I got home, I replaced all four with the shorter European version.
 

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Just more so than a single nut. 🔩

P.S. On are related note, it boggles my engineering design background that it takes 21 fasteners to change out a turn signal that sticks out so far, that it's bound to hit the ground in an off-road drop. I broke one front and one rear during my NEBDR run. When I got home, I replaced all four with the shorter European version.
My ym. 2008 R1200GS (R.I.P) had 4 (four) fasteners for its OE bash plate and it required 3 (three) tools to loosen/fasten, two inverted torx of different sizes and a 13 mm wrench. Some engineers are idiots.[/QUOTE]
 

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The engineers work in teams trying to do the best they can but marketing gets in the way. Very few “anything” I’ve ever repaired escapes this stuff. Technicians get cocky, thinking no DYI can come close to their experience. This is partially due to the messes a tech sees from well meaning DIY Folks getting in too deep or led so far astray by internet knowledge. Countless times I have heard “well if this were like my old bike, I could have fixed it, you need to do such and such” of course totally off and in my opinion a fabrication of owner. Then when I repair issue and tender bill it’s ”well that’s too much I could have done that myself” So I give the Bozo half off and tell never call again. 90% of time they would come skulking back begging for me. My only pleasure being “sorry no slots for 6 months” and being honest.
I know this experience repeated all over with other techs.
If you’ve the skills and tools then DIY is an excellent path. But won’t do anything for warranty work, electronic upgrades or recalls. It’s a very different time than just a couple decades ago.
Most everything works way better longer. But diagnostics and repairs are so different it’s hard for DIY to keep up. Actually quite difficult for Techs too.
As the 310 ages and gets wider distribution there will be techs figuring them out better. Hopefully a repair guide that actually covers models after 21 changes…
 

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The engineers work in teams trying to do the best they can but marketing gets in the way. Very few “anything” I’ve ever repaired escapes this stuff. Technicians get cocky, thinking no DYI can come close to their experience. This is partially due to the messes a tech sees from well meaning DIY Folks getting in too deep or led so far astray by internet knowledge. Countless times I have heard “well if this were like my old bike, I could have fixed it, you need to do such and such” of course totally off and in my opinion a fabrication of owner. Then when I repair issue and tender bill it’s ”well that’s too much I could have done that myself” So I give the Bozo half off and tell never call again. 90% of time they would come skulking back begging for me. My only pleasure being “sorry no slots for 6 months” and being honest.
I know this experience repeated all over with other techs.
If you’ve the skills and tools then DIY is an excellent path. But won’t do anything for warranty work, electronic upgrades or recalls. It’s a very different time than just a couple decades ago.
Most everything works way better longer. But diagnostics and repairs are so different it’s hard for DIY to keep up. Actually quite difficult for Techs too.
As the 310 ages and gets wider distribution there will be techs figuring them out better. Hopefully a repair guide that actually covers models after 21 changes…
In the old days, like stone ages or slightly later, the fault finding took 10 minutes and repair 50 minutes of an hour and then you repaired something mechanical. Today the fault finding takes 5 minutes with a computer (or equal) and then you change out a system component that is irreparable. Was it better in the old days? No, but you could do it your self and it didn't cost you an arm and a leg. Stuff today aren't made to be used and fixed, they are made to be sold and (at best) used, then scrapped.
 

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No hassle Hassleman speaking the truth. Good, bad or indifferent. Do I miss my MBZ 300 SD? The driving, enginneering and low cost of maintaining I miss very much. I even ran that unit on waste vegetable oil I got free. But I don’t miss having to spend much time on maintenance on the car and prepping fuel. My wife’s 21 Honda has very little to do other than oil changes, brake pads. Thing comes close to safe autonomous driving and delivers amazing economy. Pretty much no soul but a workhorse for wife who loves it. I like happy wife and not having to worry her out and about. It crazy my friends, but it was for our grandpas too…..
Say on those turn sigs. I found out that if whacked properly, they just pop out of mount and you can push them back in. I suspect, like the factory lever guards, a “single use” item. Next break, will break.
 

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Say on those turn sigs. I found out that if whacked properly, they just pop out of mount and you can push them back in. I suspect, like the factory lever guards, a “single use” item. Next break, will break.
When I broke two of mine on the NEBDR, it was the little tab that broke. The bolt still held it there, but without the plastic tab, it droops down and flops around until the wires break. I replaced all four of mine with the short version (#1 below) intended for other markets and/motorcycles. The short version is short enough to be fully protected by the grab bars in the back and my tank guards in the front.

Font Eyewear Auto part Art Audio equipment
 

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Yeah that is the best way. I’m betting next nap, I’ll bust tab. Working on a plastic plate (hdpe cutting board) under the rear box that wings out to protect turn sigs and adds extra to rack with a strut. I’ll get it done after next nap I’m sure. I have pondered sanding the tab so it releases easier without breaking. Remember the only thing cheap on a BMW motorbike is sometimes the nutter holding on to bars.
 

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I could have bought very inexpensive non-BMW tab-less versions on Amazon or eBay that just bolted in place, but BMW's seemed like the brightest, so I went with their short versions. My take-off long ones sold quickly.

I bought the short versions from Europe Moto for $226.80 for four of them, including shipping from Europe to NC. If I had bought the long versions here in the US, I would have paid $343.28 for four of them. It's not that the long versions are more expensive, it's that BMW's prices for parts are higher in the US. I often buy BMW parts from Europe and pay significantly less despite the higher shipping cost.
 
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