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I replaced my 2 levers with fully adjustable versions.
At first no problem, but after about 10 days and a few hundred km my brake switch has stopped working.
Someone on another thread mentioned about ‘bending’ the contacts to make them work again.
I can’t believe that on a relatively expensive bike (for the capacity) that there are exposed contact strips which can bend.
it’s EXTREMELY annoying that a manufacturer can put a sealed brake switch which lasts DECADES on a bike costing 20% of the cost of the BMW ‘prestige’ model.

Before I start pulling everything apart again, does anyone have access to an exploded view of the brake lever switch so I can learn what I’m dealing with in advance


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Geoff,I think you will find the switch is a sealed switch and it is only the actuator arm on the switch you may have to bend slightly to get the correct operation. Their is a clear diagram in the workshop manual dvd,but no facility to copy it.
 

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I replaced my 2 levers with fully adjustable versions.
At first no problem, but after about 10 days and a few hundred km my brake switch has stopped working.
Someone on another thread mentioned about ‘bending’ the contacts to make them work again.
I can’t believe that on a relatively expensive bike (for the capacity) that there are exposed contact strips which can bend.
it’s EXTREMELY annoying that a manufacturer can put a sealed brake switch which lasts DECADES on a bike costing 20% of the cost of the BMW ‘prestige’ model.

Before I start pulling everything apart again, does anyone have access to an exploded view of the brake lever switch so I can learn what I’m dealing with in advance


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obviously the tolerances at the mount points are not the same between the aftermarket levers and the new ones. The BMW levers may be garbage but are dimensionally correct where they fit in the housings.

When i encountered this i just dropped the clutch lever pivot bolt and used a pair of needle nose pliers to reach in and bend up the end of the microswitch tab so the new lever would trip the switch, barely took a minute.

I don't see what there is to get worked up over? Sure it's a simple design but at least it's easy to work with and adjust. Sure it would be better if it was waterproofed and better yet if it was at the clutch end but whatever, our bikes have their cylinder heads on backwards and that works.

The brake and stator fiasco's are far less understandable.
 

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Has anyone noticed and found a solution for the front brake lever, having a lot of travel / excess movement...before the front brakes actually start grabbing?.. I have several motorcycles.. and I have almost instant front pad actuation.. versus the factory setup on my 2018 G310R... I also tried aftermarket levers.. not much luck... It's like the pushrod on the master cylinder has to go in significantly more... in order to start stopping the bike. Is there an adjustment or is there someone else that came up with something? Thanks for any advice.
 
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