front fork oil seal leak

I had to have the special tool to remove and replace the nut on the left fork of my VTX. But that was to replace the springs. For the seals and bushings I didn't have to remove the nut because the bushings and seals will slide over it. That being said the forks on my VTX are inverted, just opposite of the 310 GS. However looking at the diagram on the previous page I don't see how removing the nut is required on these forks either. Remove the dust ring and then the little cir clip just on the inside of the tube . This will release the tube from the fork. Once that is done the seals and bushings should be visible. Remove and replace just like it shows in the diagram. Just to be clear, the seals and bushings are at the bottom of the fork. Section 7 in the diagram show the bushing and slider bushing. Section 8 (from the bottom up) shows the dust seal, the cir clip, washer , then the oil seal. Make sure to put these parts in the same way they came out. That washer has a flat side on it and the oil seal needs to go in with the little bumps on it facing out. (or down in this case.)

billhig2 said:

Yes, the all the Seals are at the bottom
But when I put it back together again, I have to add the oil and measure it. I can’t do that without removing the top nut.

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The top nut on the left fork has 4 holes in it. The oil will drain through them into the fork. I know some folks will tell you to measure from the top of the fork to the oil level to get precisely the right amount, but as long as you put in the oz's as recommended you'll be fine. I change the oil in my forks on both my Hondas once a year. Got 70000 miles on one and 10000 on the other and never had a problem. Had to replace the seals a couple of times on the 1800 but that's really big heavy *** cruiser so they take a little more abuse. Although I haven't done this on my 310 yet. (It's barely got 2000 miles on it). I have works on other metric cruisers and dirt bikes and although none are exactly alike all do have basically the same components. Replacing the seals and bushings are basically the same on all of them.
For some reason that I don't forsee and the oil doesn't drain through the but then I would be very surprised. Just be sure to pour the oil in slowly and allow time to drain into the fork. One thing I have learned about these type forks. The left is different from the right because one pushes and one pulls. Or dampens and rebounds. That nut is under a pretty good amount of pressure and while, with the tool, it's easy to get off. It's quite another thing to get back on. Cross threading is a distinct danger. So if you can do the job without removing the nut you'll be way ahead of the game.