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G310GS Ultimate Tools List

1046 Views 16 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Makedon
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Thanks @Cyrille; I borrowed your moniker for my title...

Thanks Jerry, looking forward to discovering your ultimate tools list.
In this post, I am posting...
(1) A list version of Jenny Morgan's (JMo on advrider.com) tools.
- Her 17,000 mile journey on a Rally Raided G310GS is well described at the link next down.
- I created this list after some tools related Q&A with her. Jenny did review and OK the result and my posting of it.
- That said, any errors are my own.
(2) My own tool list based on Jenny's with notes on how and why I deviated.
(3) A clean version of my tool list without the notes.
(4) Some related pictures.

Link to Jenny's 17,000 mile G310GS journe: Beemer Beemer chicken deener!

Prestacycle: I am not associated with, or sponsored by, Prestacycle in any way. I recently watched an adventure rider use their combination 1/4" ratchet/4" extension/t-bar; it's the coolest smallest lightest tool I've ever seen. Once I found the source and saw that it was rated for 60 nm (44 ft-lbs), I bought five sets and gifted a set to Jenny for her help on this project. She liked it so much that she has adopted it; you can read her post about it at the link next below. The next two links after that are the related Prestacycle product pages. Note: I tested the 60 nm (44 ft-lbs) claim by combining the ratchet and extension bar into a single long bar and successfully used it with the CR-V d6 bit to adjust the preload ring on my Rally Raid shock both ways. Of course, before I did this, I jacked the rear wheel off the ground, loosened the preload ring's set screw, and soaked the threads and preload ring with WD-40. It was the first time I had adjusted the preload in over a year.

Prestacycle tool related links:

Dynaplug Pouches: I am not associated with, or sponsored by, Dynaplug in any way. Instead of the $45 Kriega pouch that JMo used for tools, I instead used a Dynaplug pouch bought for $13 because it's size is perfect for the storage area under the G310GS seat. I blacked out the Dynaplug logo on this pouch to distinguish it from the Dynaplug pouch that contains my tire repair stuff. To maximize storage in this pouch, I removed the tabs on the bottom of the seat that originally hold the owner's manual.* If you don't want to do this, you can still use a Dynaplug pouch, but you can't fill it completely. If you do, it's height will hit the tabs and interfere with closing the seat. Just to sow a little more confusion ;), I bought a third Dynaplug pouch as backup and discovered that it nicely held and protected my tire tube. So, to recap, I have one blacked out Dynaplug pouch with tools under my seat, one Dynaplug pouch with all my tire repair stuff except the levers and tire tube, and a second blacked out Dynaplug pouch with just my tire tube. *I do carry a copy of my owner's manual downloaded on my phone.

Storage space instead of a seat lock: I also carry an OBD Link LX and mini voltmeter in the left side space under my seat, but it fits there only because I have removed my seat lock in its entirety. I did this because the lock mechanism under the rear of the seat kept getting jammed up with mud because of gaps in R&G’s Tail Tidy. I have cable-ties through the hole of the lock mechanism to provide a friction fit for the rear seat post and I have a pull strap across the rear of the seat made from two tie-down double loop straps connected with a load-bearing carabiner. Note: I tried using duct tape to seal these gaps without success. I have now stuffed foam in the space to block the mud. If this works, I might reinstall my seat lock and move the OBD Link LX and mini voltmeter elsewhere.

Enjoy.
JerryG

(1) My list version of Jenny Morgan's G310GS tools...
All of these predate her adoption of the Prestacycle tool described above.
Link to PDF Version: JMo G310GS Tools.pdf
Link to MS Word Version: JMo G310GS Tools.docx
Picture Version:
Circuit component Font Hardware programmer Screenshot Advertising


(2) My own tool list based on Jenny's with notes on how and why I deviated...
Link to PDF Version: JerryG GS Tools w Notes.pdf
Link to MS Word Version: JerryG GS Tools w Notes.docx
Picture Version:
Font Document Number Screenshot Paper

Font Rectangle Paper Number Paper product


(3) A clean version of my tool list without the notes.
Link to PDF Version: JerryG GS Tools w Notes Removed.pdf
Link to MS Word Version: JerryG GS Tools w Notes Removed.docx
Picture Version:
Font Screenshot Document Parallel Paper


My tools laid out with a few non-obvious items labeled...
Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic component Font


My tools ready-to-put-on-my-bike. The blacked out Dynaplug pouch on the left has my tire tube and the Dynaplug pouch on the right has all my tire repair stuff except the levers and tire tube; I store these two pouches in whatever luggage I'm using. The Dynaplug pouch in the center weighs 3.9 lbs (1.8 kg) and contains all the tools, spares, and repairs items as pictured and described above; this pouch along with the tow strap, tire levers, long cable-ties, OBD Link LX, and mini voltmeter store under the seat as shown in the next picture after this.
Product Luggage and bags Bag Rectangle Musical instrument accessory


Everything except the tire tube Dynaplug pouch and the tire repair stuff Dynaplug pouch stored under my seat...
Hood Product Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


Picture showing where I removed the four tabs that originally held the owner's manual to the underside of seat...
Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Automotive wheel system


The storage space made available by removing the seat lock...
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper Automotive tire
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Wow that’s some stuff. Ready for Africa.
Manufacturers advise against using clip type master links with modern sealed chains. Riveting being preferrred. Good thing to practice though, first time can be trying. Even clips can get tricky trying to compress chain plates and slide clip on. Too tight is problematic.
I didn’t see chain lube, cleaner or adjustment tools, ounce of prevention superior to repair.
Sparkplug and socket in case of deep water issues
Repair manual really hard to remember specs or procedures. Go digital.
dishwashing gloves for handling greasy stuff
possably more common than tire issues is fueling issues, eg fuel pump. It is field repairable if you had a fuel pump with you. Don’t forget o ring, fuel filter.
small tarp to contain bits and keep dirt out of unit being repaired. Helps to contain spills.
residue free cleaner, epoxy putty quick set and emery cloth for case repairs
spare clutch cable, dry cable lube (graphite)
did I miss siphon hose and fuel container?
nut/washer and countershaft sprocket allow for quick gear changes
back up air source, compressors are notoriously fail happy especially if not used much.
There is no end to what one can carry “just in case”. Much that used to be mandatory just 10 years ago is much less so today. The amazing amount of communication available with dynamic maps negates much isolation. Before loading up an already heavy bike, read some ride reports, see what failed for others. Examine where you venturing. Get a towing package for your motorbike could really save much effort and time over a field repai/carrying lots of stuff. It’s something one has to tailor to skill set, desired venue and pocketbook.
Don‘t dally on riding because you’ve insufficient kit! Tool kit on bike will get you a long ways along with the all important credit card/cell phone combo.
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I believe one's ultimate list depends on multiple factors:
1. Pilot's (or fellow rider's) mechanical skills...
2. Remoteness: how far from civilisation do you intend to ride, and how long?
(By the way do you have the right communication tools should a true emergency occur in the middle of nowhere (e.g. Iridium "In-Reach mini", PLB, Sat phone, cellphone, VHF transceiver, etc. Do you carry a map/compass and or GPS).
3. Overall weight of tools and spares... this may impact the overall bike's center of gravity and cause you to fall. If this happens will you be able to pickup your bike if you are alone?

I also think that for remote off-road trips it is wise to carry 5 basic items (in addition to basic 1st aid kit) to survive an unplanned night outside...
  • A firesteel (to start a fire).
  • A knife (to cut some wood, to prepare some food)... a multitool (eg. Leatherman).
  • A tarp (to build a basic shelter).
  • A survival blanket (to prevent your body' core temperature from dropping too much).
  • A small cooking pot (to boil & disinfect water and to cook).

In a nutshell you may have several lists depending on the trip and its complexity. But never carry unnecessary items just in case, else a trailer may be required!
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Wow that’s some stuff. Ready for Africa.
Manufacturers advise against using clip type master links with modern sealed chains. Riveting being preferrred. Good thing to practice though, first time can be trying. Even clips can get tricky trying to compress chain plates and slide clip on. Too tight is problematic.
I didn’t see chain lube, cleaner or adjustment tools, ounce of prevention superior to repair.
Sparkplug and socket in case of deep water issues
Repair manual really hard to remember specs or procedures. Go digital.
dishwashing gloves for handling greasy stuff
possably more common than tire issues is fueling issues, eg fuel pump. It is field repairable if you had a fuel pump with you. Don’t forget o ring, fuel filter.
small tarp to contain bits and keep dirt out of unit being repaired. Helps to contain spills.
residue free cleaner, epoxy putty quick set and emery cloth for case repairs
spare clutch cable, dry cable lube (graphite)
did I miss siphon hose and fuel container?
nut/washer and countershaft sprocket allow for quick gear changes
back up air source, compressors are notoriously fail happy especially if not used much.
There is no end to what one can carry “just in case”. Much that used to be mandatory just 10 years ago is much less so today. The amazing amount of communication available with dynamic maps negates much isolation. Before loading up an already heavy bike, read some ride reports, see what failed for others. Examine where you venturing. Get a towing package for your motorbike could really save much effort and time over a field repai/carrying lots of stuff. It’s something one has to tailor to skill set, desired venue and pocketbook.
Don‘t dally on riding because you’ve insufficient kit! Tool kit on bike will get you a long ways along with the all important credit card/cell phone combo.
  • Re Africa: Nope, just the good old USA for now.
  • Re clip master link: Please show me where BMW advise against clip type master links on the G310GS? My owner's manual doesn't mention either clip, rivet, or endless chain types. While I would never use a clip master link on my 199 HP S1000RR or my 165 HP S1000XR, it didn't surprise me one bit when my BMW dealer used a clip master link when they installed a new chain and sprocket set on my 34 HP G310GS.
  • Re clip master link for emergency use: I'm not going to rivet the chain of 34 HP motorcycle on the side of a trail; a clip master link will do fine getting me to civilization or home.
  • Re chain lube: I'm using Bret Tkacs method: I'll scavenge some diesel fuel at the gas station and brush it on the chain using the brush bit in my tool kit.
  • Re sparkplug and socket to fix a drowned motorcycle: On the G310GS, it's much much easier to remove the two nuts that hold the exhaust pipe to back of the engine and let the water come out that way. That requires a small 12-point box wrench; I've now added that to my Tool Update List. Thanks.
  • Re repair manual: BMW doesn't release repair manuals. I do have my owner's manual on my phone.
  • Re dishwashing gloves: I have "latex gloves" on my list; I have a pair of mechanics latex gloves under the seat.
  • Re fuel pump: You're suggesting I carry a fuel pump 24/7/365? No. JMo didn't do that. I'm not doing that. If I was doing a RTW, maybe.
  • Re small ground tarp to use during repairs: If I was carrying one (I usually do), I'll use a trash bag. If not, I'll use my rain jacket. If I'm wearing that, I'll use my extra or dirty shirt (I carry three).
  • Re residue free cleaner: I would use the dish soap that is on my list and under my seat; if that's not strong enough, I'll dip the rag I keep under my seat in the gasoline in my tank and use that.
  • Re epoxy putty stick: It's on the list and under the seat.
  • Re emery cloth for case repairs: Sanding the hardened epoxy putty will wait for civilization.
  • Re extra clutch cable: I want to and I actually have one, but it's 10mm in diameter for almost its entire length and doesn't coil smaller than a basket ball - it's just too big to easily carry. Your question started me looking for an "emergency cable repair kit", just the wire and the fittings. There's quite a few out there, but I want one that I know works for the G310GS. Turns out that Boxer2Valve.com has one; they are connected to Wunderlich USA and in the same building with them six miles from me. I'll stop by this week and take my clutch cable with me.
  • Re clutch cable lubricant: If you have an uncoated steel cable, lube it; if you have a Teflon coated cable, don't lube it; always grease the cable ends. BMW cables are Teflon coated. I haven't lubed a BMW cable since I bought my 1987 K75C. At that time, they said don't. I'll ask my dealer to confirm re the G310GS.
  • Re siphon hose and fuel container: Situation dependent stuff like this gets decided during load planning, not tool kit planning. If I was going somewhere where gas stations and/or distances were iffy, I'd take them; otherwise not.
  • Re countershaft nut/washer/sprocket: You're suggesting I carry these 24/7/365? No. JMo didn't do that. I'm not doing that. If I find that my just-installed 15T sprocket doesn't work for me, I'll go back to the OEM 16T before my next trip.
  • Re backup air source: Like anything mechanical, compressors are fail-happy if you ignore them until you need them; you avoid this by using them regularly and testing them before each major trip.

So, after telling me to include all of the above, you tell me not to load up an already heavy bike with a bunch of tools; get a towing package; bring my wallet and credit cards; and don't let an insufficient tool kit hold up riding. You're sending mixed signals. But that's OK, I don't mind the challenge and I want feedback and ideas.

That's how I've come a long ways since my first bike when I simply took my whole tool box with me (the red tool box under the backpack)...
Wheel Tire Plant Automotive tire Motor vehicle
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I believe one's ultimate list depends on multiple factors:
1. Pilot's (or fellow rider's) mechanical skills...
2. Remoteness: how far from civilisation do you intend to ride, and how long?
(By the way do you have the right communication tools should a true emergency occur in the middle of nowhere (e.g. Iridium "In-Reach mini", PLB, Sat phone, cellphone, VHF transceiver, etc. Do you carry a map/compass and or GPS).
3. Overall weight of tools and spares... this may impact the overall bike's center of gravity and cause you to fall. If this happens will you be able to pickup your bike if you are alone?

I also think that for remote off-road trips it is wise to carry 5 basic items (in addition to basic 1st aid kit) to survive an unplanned night outside...
  • A firesteel (to start a fire).
  • A knife (to cut some wood, to prepare some food)... a multitool (eg. Leatherman).
  • A tarp (to build a basic shelter).
  • A survival blanket (to prevent your body' core temperature from dropping too much).
  • A small cooking pot (to boil & disinfect water and to cook).
In a nutshell you may have several lists depending on the trip and its complexity. But never carry unnecessary items just in case, else a trailer may be required!
I agree, but most of your points are trip and/or load planning, not tool kit planning. You've seen my tool kit plan above. You haven't seen my load plan. I'm currently in the process of getting my camping-capable load plan down to no more than 27 lbs (12.25 kg) not counting the bag(s) carrying it. That's how much JMo carried on her G310GS, so I've made that my goal.

Re your five items:
Fire: If I'm camping, I carry two lighters in two separate locations, old school matches in yet another location, plus I can always disconnect and short the battery to spark a fire if necessary.
Knives: I carry a small pocket knife in my pocket; I have a Leatherman multi-tool in my Givi Leg Bag; and I carry a hollow-handle-loaded-with-stuff survival knife when I'm more than a day's walk from civilization.
Tarp: If I'm camping, I carry a Big Agnes Copper Spur 2 Platinum Tent; if I'm not camping, I carry an SOL Emergency Bivvy with Rescue Whistle and Tinder Cord.
Blanket: If I'm camping, I carry a Zenbivy Light 25 degree System; if I'm not camping, I carry an SOL Emergency Bivvy with Rescue Whistle and Tinder Cord.
Cooking pot/food: If I'm camping, I carry a Jetboil Flash Stove with Fuel (it has it's own pot); if I'm not camping, I carry at least 1500 calories of food via small bags of trail mix.
Disinfecting water: I carry a Grayl UltraPress Water Filter and Purifier Bottle for mechanical purification and I carry Aquamira Chlorine Dioxide for chemical purification.

P.S. I always carry a Garmin InReach, currently the Mini 2, with 10 minute tracking turned on. My wife loves to follow my travels; I enjoy letting her; and I like knowing that someone knows where I am, especially when I ride alone.
P.P.S. One of the reasons I ride a G310GS is so I can pick the bike up by myself while laughing about how it and I fell down. I've did this several times during my 7,023 mile (11,300 km) solo trip last summer from North Carolina to Missouri to the NEBDR to Nova Scotia and back to North Carolina. I currently draw the line at 400 lbs (181 kg); if a bike weighs more than that, I not interested in riding it off-road. In fact, recent riding with dual sport riders on bikes weighing less than 300 lbs (136 kg) has me thinking about getting a bike that size so I can laugh even more. Of course, a G310GS can't take me there.
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Thank you very much JerryG for posting this comprehensive tool kit. It is great, and with all the packing/storing ideas lots of people will have a great resource for what to carry on their adventures. I like the Prestacycle tool kit , I own very similar kit from the Icon brand sold at Harbor Freight, has everything that the Prestacycle tool kit has and more , but I like the Icon because has a Lifetime warranty and the head is flexible and locking, similar pricing too. Locking Flex Head Ratchet and Bit Set, 35-Piece
I don’t have any affiliation with HF.
Also I have very similar tire repair kit as yours, same tire patches and rubber cement, but on a recent podcast on Adventure Rider Radio it was pointed that the best option for emergency tire repairs, is to use “ self vulcanizing strings/patches “ and “vulcanizing fluid “ instead of the rubber cement. Much more expensive than everything else on the market. Something like the following kit, again no affiliation with the manufacturer.
Again thanks for posting the tool kit , I for sure will use lots of the stuff from it . All the best.
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Thank you very much JerryG for posting this comprehensive tool kit. It is great, and with all the packing/storing ideas lots of people will have a great resource for what to carry on their adventures. I like the Prestacycle tool kit , I own very similar kit from the Icon brand sold at Harbor Freight, has everything that the Prestacycle tool kit has and more , but I like the Icon because has a Lifetime warranty and the head is flexible and locking, similar pricing too. Locking Flex Head Ratchet and Bit Set, 35-Piece
I don’t have any affiliation with HF.
Also I have very similar tire repair kit as yours, same tire patches and rubber cement, but on a recent podcast on Adventure Rider Radio it was pointed that the best option for emergency tire repairs, is to use “ self vulcanizing strings/patches “ and “vulcanizing fluid “ instead of the rubber cement. Much more expensive than everything else on the market. Something like the following kit, again no affiliation with the manufacturer.
Again thanks for posting the tool kit , I for sure will use lots of the stuff from it . All the best.
You're welcome.

The Harbor Freight set looks nice, but a lifetime warranty isn't enough. It's critical to know how much force the tool is rated for. Prestacycle provides that info (60 nm; 44 ft-lbs). Harbor Freight doesn't. I've asked them for that info on their tool; if they provide it, I'll post it here.

The BestRest Tire Repair Kit is problematic too. I threw away my "screw driver" tire repair tools a long time ago. I had a set, from BestRest as I recall. Got a flat. So here I am, pushing on the tiny end of that screw driver handle tool trying to ream out the hole and then trying to push the ropes in. I was putting my full strength against the end of that handle and it hurt my palm like hell. No matter how hard I tried, no matter how much pain I subjected myself to, I could not get the hole fully reamed and I could not get the ropes through the hole. I had to use roadside assistance. If you really like this kit otherwise, I strongly recommend you get some t-handle versions of the tools which distribute the pushing force across your whole palm. You can get them for a few bucks at any auto store or department store with an auto center. Here's an example...


Incidentally, the same issue applies to Dynaplug's tools also. I have their Pro Xtreme version with the large palm push pad, not their version with the small egg-shaped end. Here's a link to it...


I'm all for using the latest tech for tire repair as long as it works and it goes in easy. Dynaplug states that their "repair plug is a proprietary rubber impregnated cord mounted to a pointed, non-abrasive brass tip, ensures ease of insertion and secure sealing for over 97% of punctures." Dynaplug's impregnated cord makes glues/fluids completely unnecessary. Here's a link to their instruction/FAQ page if you want to read more...


"Vulcanizing" is very very old tech (older than me even 👴). There is absolutely no reason for it to be expensive 160 odd years after Charles Goodyear discovered it in the mid-1800s. Vulcanizing is just mixing sulfur with the rubber so the rubber hardens; it does not bind the plug with the tire that surrounds it, that's what glues do. I'll take modern methods over vulcanization any day. I consider Dynaplug's proprietary plugs to be one modern method. High tech glues are another.
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JerryG, Again in all sincerity, thank you very much for all the education that you are providing to whom might be interested. I find all of your posts highly informative and educational, keep them coming. All the best.
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just an idea to get more discreet storage space for the bike:

Grey Sports gear Bag Personal protective equipment Luggage and bags

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Vehicle


good place to stash a steelstik or compact inflator IMO
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just an idea to get more discreet storage space for the bike:
...
good place to stash a steelstik or compact inflator IMO
I saw a larger one of those, but it was sized for a R1200GS or R1250GS, too big for the 310GS. Was this made for the 310, something you made, repurposed,...?
P.S. What's the "DATATAG" label on top of your tail light?
P.S. What's the "DATATAG" label on top of your tail light?
oh that's just a uk anti theft thing, they mark the parts with invisible ink and register the serial number into the database to trace the parts sold by thefts
I saw a larger one of those, but it was sized for a R1200GS or R1250GS, too big for the 310GS. Was this made for the 310, something you made, repurposed,...?
repurposed, it is a waterproof underseat tool bag for bicycle bought from decathlon
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I own very similar kit from the Icon brand sold at Harbor Freight, has everything that the Prestacycle tool kit has and more , but I like the Icon because has a Lifetime warranty and the head is flexible and locking, similar pricing too. Locking Flex Head Ratchet and Bit Set, 35-Piece

The Harbor Freight set looks nice, but a lifetime warranty isn't enough. It's critical to know how much force the tool is rated for. Prestacycle provides that info (60 nm; 44 ft-lbs). Harbor Freight doesn't. I've asked them for that info on their tool; if they provide it, I'll post it here.
Harbor Freight were very responsive letting know they were tracking down this information and providing it. Here's what they said:

"Thank you for your patience while we researched your question for the ICON Locking Flex Head Ratchet and Bit Set, 35-Piece (58074). Below are the specs you requested. Minimum Proof Torque (IN-LBS) / Breaking Force (IN-LBS) : 788 inch lbs. / 65 ft. lbs."

At 65 ft-lbs (88 nm), HF's is stronger than Prestacycle's. I'm impressed and pleased; it gives us another option for our tool sets.

@Makedon: Have you done something that put the HF tool to a serious strength test?
P.S. I've ordered one so I can compare them side-by-side and test the HF tool adjusting my shock the same way I tested the Prestacycle tool.
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Thank you for all the time you've spent on this and sharing. Lots of this stuff I didn't know existed.
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@JerryG . I have used them in different situations, but nothing required excessive force. I especially like the flex head on the ratchet, helps reaching tighter places. In general I’m very happy with the quality of the tool set .
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