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I finally installed my usb ports on my bike yesterday. Was extremely frustrated by the process only because the amount of screws BMW uses on the plastics is ridiculous as is the amount of plastics period. The most frustrating part was after everything was removed, I still couldn't seem to get to the extra canbus plugs, because I didn't want to brake anything around the headlight and couldn't figure out how to get it all off. At the end of the day I did what I had mentioned in another post several months ago surrounding the same topic. I removed the headlight and BAM!!! there they were. Removing all the plastics is absolutely not necessary and a complete waste of time. So if you want to do this mod. Save yourself time and frustration and just take your headlight out. In the pics below you will see I have all the plastics off and all I needed was the headlight out. The links are the products I used. I didn't have to modify anything on the bike itself except for the hole I drilled. The plug I used I attached it to the USB port and it was a direct plug and play once I married the parts up.
I am pretty picky about the work I do, so I don't like things looking like I didn't care. So I also ordered a "step drill bit" set and drilled out a perfectly round hole in my dash to mount the usb port. I then zip tied all the wires back up just like they were factory. Even though you don't see all that stuff once everything is put together, I can't handle knowing it would be messy and unprofessional. LOL so I always make sure things look like you would expect them to look from the factory.

 

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I went with the same location only put in the BMW style “powerlet” for a couple reasons. My other bike is a F800GS and it has a powerlet that is ignition powered and I go wild camping often and need to charge my phone and helmet at night. For this reason I wanted my outlet powered full time direct to the battery, and with the usb and volt meter it would be draining all the time. The powerlet is only an outlet and doesn’t draw power. So this option allows me to just plug in the powerlet to USB adapter or anything I want. I also carry a small air compressor with a powerlet plug. I have also seen the old usb chargers being replace by usb C and figured the bike may outlast the technology of that style plug.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was also worried about it draining power all the time, which is why I set it up to plug directly into the canbus plugs. The ports and voltmeter only come on when the bike is on.
 

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OK. Rainy day here so I took some time to install mine today. Plus it’s been slow here on the forum so I thought I’d add some content too.
First a huge thanks to @Fred for all the info above I followed and @lostinspace for this thread helping with the wiring: Where and How to connect the ACC
I do hope I am wrong but I will have to debunk the claim that the GS has a third aux plug under the battery. I took off the small plastic pieces and searched every wire. I couldn’t locate it.
On to the install. As said, removal of just the headlight gave access to the plugs. Getting the light out was a pain. I found the screw tabs got hung up on the plastic pieces in these pics as can be seen from the scratch marks.
Auto part Vehicle Brake Suspension Automotive exterior
Auto part Vehicle Brake Suspension Automotive exterior

Both plugs are zip tied on the right side (facing bike from front) behind the light. I thought one was on each side so it took me a few minutes to realize.
Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Car Bumper

After install and all zipped up
Tire Light Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Automotive tire
Wire Cable Technology Bumper Electronic device
Technology Wire Audio equipment Cable Metal

It’s still raining so I didn’t get a pic of the usb/voltmeter but I might add later. It looks just like Fred’s above but I chose the right side as I am saving the other side for grip heaters and the ones I am liking so far have the controls on the left and I figured it would look cleaner hooking up there.
 

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I finally installed my usb ports on my bike yesterday. Was extremely frustrated by the process only because the amount of screws BMW uses on the plastics is ridiculous as is the amount of plastics period. The most frustrating part was after everything was removed, I still couldn't seem to get to the extra canbus plugs, because I didn't want to brake anything around the headlight and couldn't figure out how to get it all off. At the end of the day I did what I had mentioned in another post several months ago surrounding the same topic. I removed the headlight and BAM!!! there they were. Removing all the plastics is absolutely not necessary and a complete waste of time. So if you want to do this mod. Save yourself time and frustration and just take your headlight out. In the pics below you will see I have all the plastics off and all I needed was the headlight out. The links are the products I used. I didn't have to modify anything on the bike itself except for the hole I drilled. The plug I used I attached it to the USB port and it was a direct plug and play once I married the parts up.
I am pretty picky about the work I do, so I don't like things looking like I didn't care. So I also ordered a "step drill bit" set and drilled out a perfectly round hole in my dash to mount the usb port. I then zip tied all the wires back up just like they were factory. Even though you don't see all that stuff once everything is put together, I can't handle knowing it would be messy and unprofessional. LOL so I always make sure things look like you would expect them to look from the factory.

OK. Rainy day here so I took some time to install mine today. Plus it’s been slow here on the forum so I thought I’d add some content too.
First a huge thanks to @Fred for all the info above I followed and @lostinspace for this thread helping with the wiring: Where and How to connect the ACC
I do hope I am wrong but I will have to debunk the claim that the GS has a third aux plug under the battery. I took off the small plastic pieces and searched every wire. I couldn’t locate it.
On to the install. As said, removal of just the headlight gave access to the plugs. Getting the light out was a pain. I found the screw tabs got hung up on the plastic pieces in these pics as can be seen from the scratch marks.
View attachment 15341 View attachment 15341
Both plugs are zip tied on the right side (facing bike from front) behind the light. I thought one was on each side so it took me a few minutes to realize.
View attachment 15343
After install and all zipped up
View attachment 15344 View attachment 15345 View attachment 15346
It’s still raining so I didn’t get a pic of the usb/voltmeter but I might add later. It looks just like Fred’s above but I chose the right side as I am saving the other side for grip heaters and the ones I am liking so far have the controls on the left and I figured it would look cleaner hooking up there.

OMG! I wish I'd seen this thread (with yours and Fred's posts) before I tackled this job. The thread I read indicated all the plastics had to come off and it was a nightmare (despite being a fastidious person with some mechanical experience I have 2 screws left over! Also OCD did I mention?!). Mine is a 21 model and I can confirm that the two auxiliary plugs are still right there where they apparently always have been. I didn't use the existing auxiliary plug, I just cut it off and spliced wiring onto it. I zip-tied a USB outlet to the frame near the horn and ran the USB cable from the Quad-Lock phone mount down to it. Works fine but I still feel like I need a serious drink two days after putting it all back together.
 

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OMG! I wish I'd seen this thread (with yours and Fred's posts) before I tackled this job. The thread I read indicated all the plastics had to come off and it was a nightmare (despite being a fastidious person with some mechanical experience I have 2 screws left over! Also OCD did I mention?!). Mine is a 21 model and I can confirm that the two auxiliary plugs are still right there where they apparently always have been. I didn't use the existing auxiliary plug, I just cut it off and spliced wiring onto it. I zip-tied a USB outlet to the frame near the horn and ran the USB cable from the Quad-Lock phone mount down to it. Works fine but I still feel like I need a serious drink two days after putting it all back together.
15654
15655
Motor vehicle White Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive lighting
Hood Vehicle Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive tire
 

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Let’s see if this thread will come back to life. It has the best picts, though there are plenty. I had a request to have one installed by the time I took bike to dealer for ECU check during 600 run in. Service manager loved the RR fork fix, wanted to see other ups to make money on.
I used the info on this site to source the male plug required to use the factory ports to power up a unit. This could be important to some. Going direct to the bat ray can bite you, even though there is a switch on meter, it will still consume power when not displaying! On other bikes, I’ve actually had to start using a tender after installing a voltmeter whist display off. Something about an electronic sw requiring voltage.
I found that the deed can be done with just removal of the headlight. Though removing the headlight is not actually all that easy. If I did this again, I’d use weather strip adhesive on those silly washers, glue to grommet. Took three try’s to install headlight with all washers.
Start to finish it was a two hour ordeal, but I’m damaged. I think a normal person should be all done in an hour. Experienced technician, half hour Some coarage required using hole saw on dash but voltmeter useless if you can’t see it and using a combo USB the dash convenient. There’s lots clearance on left side up high, near where the harness ports are.
I didn’t take picts as there are some already on site. I was also disgusted as under testing the unit I found my bike to be over charging at 15+ volts idling.…….thankfully? My bike on way to dealer for a new water pump, so they’ll have to issue a new regulator too….
I find myself grateful that I have two bikes and for those intrepid folks who’ve blazed a trail ahead of me like Kent and Fred.
I highly suggest any owners of these fine units to get a voltmeter on board.
 
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