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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my bike back in March earlier this year. The first thing I did with it was change out the stock headlight bulb to an LED bulb. The brand is AuxBeam. I have it in my other cards and they work great. No issues whatsoever. Back to the bike. Fast forward to last week as I was riding I noticed my headlights would flicker or completely shut off at first or second gear. As soon as I got it up to 3 gear or 5000RPMs it would be just fine again.

Anyone have similar issues? I took it to the dealer today, as the warranty is still good, and they said that it drew a lot of power and the bike couldn't transfer enough power to it. They said if I kept the bulb in there it may fry the wiring and void my warranty completely. Thoughts, suggestions, or opinions about this?
 

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I cant offer any suggestions unfortunately, but I've just bought a year old bike that the previous owner had upgraded the bulb. The day of my test drive it blew the bulb which they replaced but I'm now worried it will happen again! Sounds like the electrics aren't up to an LED replacement
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I cant offer any suggestions unfortunately, but I've just bought a year old bike that the previous owner had upgraded the bulb. The day of my test drive it blew the bulb which they replaced but I'm now worried it will happen again! Sounds like the electrics aren't up to an LED replacement
That's what I'm afraid of. It took 10 months for it to finally get to this stage, though. Makes me wonder if the Hoglights some have posted on here will draw the same issue.
 

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Flickering or completely shutting off LED bulb is generally due to low voltage input. Can you check the power consumption and the specified operational input voltage range of your LED bulb?

With these info and working knowledge of voltmeter, you will be able to identify the cause of this symptom. I will be pleased to help you.:smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Flickering or completely shutting off LED bulb is generally due to low voltage input. Can you check the power consumption and the specified operational input voltage range of your LED bulb?

With these info and working knowledge of voltmeter, you will be able to identify the cause of this symptom. I will be pleased to help you.:smile2:
It will flicker and/or shut off. So, both at times.

Input Power is 36W for low - 36W for high
8,000 Lumens for both high and low
Operating Voltage is DC9-32V

The weather in Texas has been mid-70s during the day and mid-60s during the evening. Yes. We are still in shorts and tshirts here. :laugh:

The bike is still at the dealer so I'll see what they find and can see what they were reading on their voltmeter and compare it to my reading when I get it back. I'll report back what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Quick update.

Dealer said my LED bulbs, 35W, was pulling too much power. The bike is made for a 55W bulb. I don't know if I buy that response completely. They said since the bike is made for 55W and my bulb was 35W it was drawing a lot more power to make it hit 55W.
 

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would said dealer be freedom power sports in Hurst off of 820?
35watts is 20 less than 55 (low, 60 high) now if there is a internal short in the driver for the light it could be drawing more but reaching a higher gear wont change draw unless a wire is shorting somewhere and air flow is blowing the wire off what it is shorting on.

the charging system produces more than enough power, if the light was drawing enough power to effect output enough to cause light to cut out it would have blown the fuse, high output LED's work on current more than voltage. they work perfectly over a wide voltage range but are regulated for a set current limit.

most likely it is a issue with the LED light driver, though there is a chance there may be a issue with the bikes regulator rectifier. faulty rectifier would let a AC power sine wave into the system and electronics don't like that. you would see flickering with other lights on the bike and would also most likely have issue with battery charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dealer is Gulf Coast BMW in South Houston, TX.

The guy at the dealer said that the stater is probably the issue. Without a relay, of some sort, it would draw too much power overtime and could develop electronic issues like I'm having now. I'm not too savvy with a voltmeter so I'll have to wait for a friend to help me. The roads I travel to work is dark. Like, almost pitch black if other cars aren't on the road with me. Loved having the LED lights on that road. Kinda stinks with the OEM back in it.
 

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If a standard bulb is working correctly, the LED driver is the most likely suspect.

And the most likely cause is the high frequency vibration present on our bikes.

But do remember there have been problems with the generator and regulator as experienced by me and others on the forum.


RobertB
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here's a pic of the LED light I used. The top is what I've had since I've bought the bike in March. It's a straight plug-n-play. The other one has a dongle connection. For the sake of research and knowing I may blow out some electrical I put the bottom one into it just now. So far no flickering of shut offs. Wife was in front of me with a GoPro in the back of her window so I could see the video when I got back home. Went and got lunch in downtown so it was a further ride.
 

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The bottom one looks a lot like the one I have been using since may. (and not until then probably here in the Great White North).

It was on the bike when my generator gave up the ghost, and the dealer did not mention it then.

You can't overlook it because of the racket the LED fan is making.

Anyway your test seems to confirm the problem resided in your original LED.
 

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Hi ResQSonny81:

36W of power consumption and DC9-32V of working voltage range sounds normal for today's replacement H4 LED bulb. So...
Let's assume that the lighting fuse (15A) is not blown out.

1. Remove the original coupler from the LED bulb.
2. Measure the voltage at the coupler while engine is idleing and memo the readings.

If the result of step 2 is less than 12V, there may be major problems on the bike's battery, generator or charging system.
If the result of step 2 is 14V or more, it's OK. let's go ahead.

3. Reinstall the coupler to the LED bulb and then measure the voltage as you did.

If the result of step 3 shows a significant voltage drop, it may be caused by a current flowing into the LED bulb. This means that the orignal harness/switch/coupler has some problems. Or, the LED bulb actually draws higher current than expected. Or, both have problems.

What your dealer said sounds strange to me. "The bike is made for a 55W bulb" means that the light harness can withstand continuous 55W of load. If the LED bulb is working properly, it draws just 36W (in your case). There is no problem at a lighter load. If the LED bulb draws too much power, the circuitry is protected by harness fuse and it won't affect generator stater coil.

If the "dongle connection" LED bulb is working properly in your G now, most likely it is a issue with the LED light driver of the "straight connection" LED bulb. It might be damaged, too hard to operate at low voltage, or shutting down itself by internal protection circuitry due to excessive heat detected.

Hope this helps.
 

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Maybe, it's not possible to start the engine without the bulb connected.
I couldn't do so some weeks ago as i forgot to reconnect the bulb after changing it.
Maybe it is only in the europen version as you have to drive with lights on.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Maybe, it's not possible to start the engine without the bulb connected.
I couldn't do so some weeks ago as i forgot to reconnect the bulb after changing it.
Maybe it is only in the europen version as you have to drive with lights on.
All bikes ride with their lights on in the US. The brighter the better. :grin2:

Here are my findings I did with a friend:
The power put out by the bike is just fine.
Alternator is good.
The new bulb I put it in has been working just fine. It actually looks more crisp and sharp compared to the other one that looked a bit hazy. I don't know if that makes sense. lol
Been riding the bike for a couple of days with zero issues. I think it was just the direct connect type bulb. I noticed that it did crimp the cables in the back a bit when the housing is closed.
If I run into another issue I will report back. :knocks on wood and crosses fingers:

I appreciate all the feedback, tips, and opinions. Thank you!
 

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All bikes ride with their lights on in the US. The brighter the better. :grin2:

Here are my findings I did with a friend:
The power put out by the bike is just fine.
Alternator is good.
The new bulb I put it in has been working just fine. It actually looks more crisp and sharp compared to the other one that looked a bit hazy. I don't know if that makes sense. lol
Been riding the bike for a couple of days with zero issues. I think it was just the direct connect type bulb. I noticed that it did crimp the cables in the back a bit when the housing is closed.
If I run into another issue I will report back. :knocks on wood and crosses fingers:

I appreciate all the feedback, tips, and opinions. Thank you!
Hi ResQSonny81:

It's nice to hear that your bike's electrical system is just fine and the problem resided just in your "straight connection" LED bulb.
Ride safe with your new bulb!
 

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Maybe, it's not possible to start the engine without the bulb connected.
I couldn't do so some weeks ago as i forgot to reconnect the bulb after changing it.
Maybe it is only in the europen version as you have to drive with lights on.
Hi Toldi,

It is required by law in Japan to always light up while the engine is running (since 1998).
I don't believe that our Gs are designed to not start the engine with blown headlight bulb. I didn't even think about that. Actually mine does start the engine without the bulb connected.
 

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Hi Sam,
mine didn't start without the bulb connected.
Since 2017, all new bikes here in Europe have to fullfill the EU4-regulations, that are 60 pages of very detailed technical details!
Here is an article about that (in german):
https://www.motorradonline.de/recht-und-verkehr/ueberblick-euro-4-fuer-motorraeder.710466.html
It is thinkable, that the japanese version of onboard software or the american one are different from the european one!
Therefore I said: "maybe"!
Have a good time and much fun with your bike.
:)
 

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Hi Sam,
mine didn't start without the bulb connected.
Since 2017, all new bikes here in Europe have to fullfill the EU4-regulations, that are 60 pages of very detailed technical details!
Here is an article about that (in german):
https://www.motorradonline.de/recht-und-verkehr/ueberblick-euro-4-fuer-motorraeder.710466.html
It is thinkable, that the japanese version of onboard software or the american one are different from the european one!
Therefore I said: "maybe"!
Have a good time and much fun with your bike.
:)
That just sounds dangerous! Just imagine being stranded 100km away from civilisation on a 45 degree celsius day and you can't start the bike because of a blown light globe.
 

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Then you call the BMW pickup service for bikes in the middle of Gobi desert!:laugh:
They come immidiately with a new bulb, they say, if your phone is working>:)
 
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