Always used to cable tie my spare along side the one fitted , or along the frame under panels if they did not like being coiled. Bagged the ends to keep clean.
My Emergency Clutch Cable Kit
I bought a spare OEM clutch cable to carry in case I broke one far from civilization. The OEM clutch cable is massive: While the wire itself is only 2 mm, with the outer casing, it's 10mm (0.4") in diameter for almost it's entire length; it's 123 cm (48.4") from the bottom to the bend at the top and another 7 cm (2.8") after the bend; and when I tried to coil it to stow it on the bike, the smallest it wanted to coil was the size of a basketball. For me, that's too big to drag around just-in-case.
This lead me to searching for an emergency clutch repair kit. There are lots of kits out there that claim to be universal, but I wanted one that specifically said it fit a G310GS. I couldn't find one; if you know of one, please share the info and link for it.
So I collected more info from my spare OEM cable so I could judge the universal kits: The clutch hand lever fitting is 8 mm diameter and 10 mm high. The clutch engine lever fitting is 6.2 mm diameter x ~6 mm high necking down to 3.9 mm diameter x 5 mm high which then necks down conically to cable itself. Both are soldered to the wire, but an emergency repair kit typically has screw-on fittings for one or both ends. This allows you to pull the broken wire out of the casing; thread the new wire through the casing; and attach the screw-on fitting to the end you threaded through the casing. I couldn't find a single universal kit that provided enough detailed information on their fittings to assess if they would or wouldn't work for a G310GS.
During my search, I did find a kit at Wunderlich just 6 miles from me, so I stopped by with my spare cable in hand. They pulled out one of their kits, but its wires were only 1 mm and 1.5 mm, so they couldn't recommend using their kit. When I searched more, I found that a lot of kits have these smaller diameter wire sizes.
More searching turned up components I thought would work. I ordered them and compared them to my hand and engine clutch levers. Motion Pro's 2 mm wire has the correct hand lever fitting soldered to one end and the wire is certainly long enough at 165 cm (65"). Dorman's 3/32" (2.4 mm) wire cable stop should suffice as a fitting to pull on the engine lever, but, because it's not the correct shape for retention by the lever, you also need a few inches of safety wire (preferably stainless steel) to wire around the fitting on the engine lever so it won't slide off the lever.
So, my self assembled emergency clutch repair kit, which coils nicely into my Dynaplug tire repair pouch, includes:
*My spares and repairs kit includes about 100 cm (39") of Brookstone 0.032" (0.8 mm) Grade 302 Stainless Steel safety wire. I bought a 1 lbs. (0.45 kg) can of this wire a couple decades back and it's still over half full. When I search for this wire now, I don't find Brookstone, but I do find many sources for the same size and grade wire described as aviation safety wire. Here's one Amazon Prime Same-Day/Free Returns source: https://www.amazon.com/Malin-MS20995C-Stainless-Safety-Lockwire/dp/B005VR49D6
**My tool set includes a Leatherman with needle nose pliers that have a wire cutter.
If you want to know more about the tools, spares, et al., that I carry, go to: G310GS Ultimate Tools List
This lead me to searching for an emergency clutch repair kit. There are lots of kits out there that claim to be universal, but I wanted one that specifically said it fit a G310GS. I couldn't find one; if you know of one, please share the info and link for it.
So I collected more info from my spare OEM cable so I could judge the universal kits: The clutch hand lever fitting is 8 mm diameter and 10 mm high. The clutch engine lever fitting is 6.2 mm diameter x ~6 mm high necking down to 3.9 mm diameter x 5 mm high which then necks down conically to cable itself. Both are soldered to the wire, but an emergency repair kit typically has screw-on fittings for one or both ends. This allows you to pull the broken wire out of the casing; thread the new wire through the casing; and attach the screw-on fitting to the end you threaded through the casing. I couldn't find a single universal kit that provided enough detailed information on their fittings to assess if they would or wouldn't work for a G310GS.
During my search, I did find a kit at Wunderlich just 6 miles from me, so I stopped by with my spare cable in hand. They pulled out one of their kits, but its wires were only 1 mm and 1.5 mm, so they couldn't recommend using their kit. When I searched more, I found that a lot of kits have these smaller diameter wire sizes.
More searching turned up components I thought would work. I ordered them and compared them to my hand and engine clutch levers. Motion Pro's 2 mm wire has the correct hand lever fitting soldered to one end and the wire is certainly long enough at 165 cm (65"). Dorman's 3/32" (2.4 mm) wire cable stop should suffice as a fitting to pull on the engine lever, but, because it's not the correct shape for retention by the lever, you also need a few inches of safety wire (preferably stainless steel) to wire around the fitting on the engine lever so it won't slide off the lever.
So, my self assembled emergency clutch repair kit, which coils nicely into my Dynaplug tire repair pouch, includes:
- 1 each Motion Pro Cable, "Cable, 2.0 Inner Wire (1X19) w/8X10 Barrel 1650mm" (sold 1 each for $14.99 at Cable, 2.0 Inner Wire (1X19) w/8X10 Barrel 1650mm - Motion Pro)
- 1 each "Dorman 03338 Cable Stops 3/32 In.(qty. 2), 2 Pack Universal Fit" (sold as 2 pack for $3.60 at https://shorturl.at/kpA04)
- A few inches of safety wire*
- Wire cutters to cut the excess clutch cable wire and the safety wire**
*My spares and repairs kit includes about 100 cm (39") of Brookstone 0.032" (0.8 mm) Grade 302 Stainless Steel safety wire. I bought a 1 lbs. (0.45 kg) can of this wire a couple decades back and it's still over half full. When I search for this wire now, I don't find Brookstone, but I do find many sources for the same size and grade wire described as aviation safety wire. Here's one Amazon Prime Same-Day/Free Returns source: https://www.amazon.com/Malin-MS20995C-Stainless-Safety-Lockwire/dp/B005VR49D6
**My tool set includes a Leatherman with needle nose pliers that have a wire cutter.
If you want to know more about the tools, spares, et al., that I carry, go to: G310GS Ultimate Tools List
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
I considered that, but with setbacks, heated grips, and power for my phone, I didn't want to stress/crowd that space by stuffing another 10 mm cable there.Always used to cable tie my spare along side the one fitted , or along the frame under panels if they did not like being coiled. Bagged the ends to keep clean.
Cable failure is reasonably preventable with careful regular inspection. You will get warning of pending failure. Replacing a cable at any sign of impending doom prudent. Actually annual replacement would smart if doing lots miles/corrosive environment (salt roads).
The clutch pull on the 310 is so light there isn’t a high probability of failure.
The 310 shifts fine without a clutch actually once rolling, a little practice and a push, you can start out as well. Kinda like carrying extra brake pads, not a bad idea if you’ve the room.
The best prevention of clutch cable issues would be converting the unit to hydraulic. This will also prevent having to adjust the clutch freeplay. I found under extreme use the clutch point would change (creep) requiring slight adjustments mid ride. There’s a good write up on installing one on this forum. It’s one of those “do it once” projects eliminating cable replacement. Contemplate where your intending to go before loading up on spares. One thing I learned over years it’s it’s really easy to stack on “just one more thing” ending up being porky with stuff never required. For many, cellphone, credit card and tow service would be an easier path. On the big GS’s it’s less of issue, on the hefty 310 wieght is an issue if venturing off tarmac. I ponder when the cable is supposend to be replaced as part of maintaining unit. Info found in Factory Service Manual.
The clutch pull on the 310 is so light there isn’t a high probability of failure.
The 310 shifts fine without a clutch actually once rolling, a little practice and a push, you can start out as well. Kinda like carrying extra brake pads, not a bad idea if you’ve the room.
The best prevention of clutch cable issues would be converting the unit to hydraulic. This will also prevent having to adjust the clutch freeplay. I found under extreme use the clutch point would change (creep) requiring slight adjustments mid ride. There’s a good write up on installing one on this forum. It’s one of those “do it once” projects eliminating cable replacement. Contemplate where your intending to go before loading up on spares. One thing I learned over years it’s it’s really easy to stack on “just one more thing” ending up being porky with stuff never required. For many, cellphone, credit card and tow service would be an easier path. On the big GS’s it’s less of issue, on the hefty 310 wieght is an issue if venturing off tarmac. I ponder when the cable is supposend to be replaced as part of maintaining unit. Info found in Factory Service Manual.
Especially if you remove the ends of the cable and put some grease on the fittings and lever fitting receivers. Wow, what a difference that made when I did mine yesterday.The clutch pull on the 310 is so light there isn’t a high probability of failure.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
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