Make sure all the BMW service recalls have been done .
And good service history.

 

I would not by a beater. You never know how it looks inside. When the outside is not taken care off.......... On the end you buy something that gives you only headache. Check out the seller and his surroundings to get a glimpse. I would never buy food equipment if the seller kitchen looks like a pigpen. Good luck. Harald

 

#1 - I wouldn't consider a used BMW motorcycle unless the current owner can provide a complete set of service records showing that all the scheduled services have been performed.

#2 - I usually buy new: A new BMW motorcycle bought in the US comes with a three year BMW warranty and BMW Roadside Assistance (towing).

#3 - When I buy used, I strongly favor a BMW motorcycle that originally sold less than three years ago. That way, it is still be covered by the original BMW warranty which does transfer to subsequent owners. P.S. The owner of a BMW motorcycle that is still under warranty can purchase up to another four years of warranty from BMW; just make sure any warranty being offered is direct from BMW, not some 3rd party.

 

Long reply. Sorry...
The great thing about buying a used bike is that it is possible to find a 5- to 8-year-old machine with low mileage, (some under 10,000 miles). Occasionally, a rider will acquire a motorcycle, then lose interest. I have had very good luck finding “garage queens” (a term for pristine motorcycles that have suffered the neglect of non-use), restoring them to roadworthy condition, and then riding them for years. Be assured that there is no such thing as a “turnkey” motorcycle, in my experience. Every acquisition will immediately get all the fluids changed at minimum, engine oil, coolant, and brake fluid. Chain, sprockets, and tires will be carefully inspected, and only put into service if in good working order. Tires exceeding 5 years of age get changed regardless of appearance and tread depth. Plan on spending $100 minimum, and perhaps another $400 - $500 if chain, sprockets, and tires need replacing. Of course, these expenses will factor into the purchase price

A well-maintained motorcycle should easily last 100,000 miles. Some owners think that a bike is past its prime at 30-40,000 miles, and may be willing to offer the bike at a steep discount. Frankly, they may be forced into a discounted price due to competition from lower-mileage machines. If the bike is otherwise in good condition, I would be unafraid to purchase. The highest mileage bike l ever bought had 59,000 miles on it when I took ownership. Here is an article that may be of interest to some:

https://www.honda-v4.com/sabmag/pdf/Stan_Wilson_vfr750f_rc36.pdf

Here are some tips that have served me well over the years.

• I know what I want and do my homework before contacting the owner for an appointment to inspect the bike. I'm also patient, and willing to wait until I find the bike that meets my expectations. Knowing the blue book value for the bike and model year will help me determine a fair offer. Some people accessorize their bikes with performance exhaust, frame sliders, saddle bags, top case, etc., then expect me to pay full price for all that stuff. Others will throw it all in as incentive for the sale. I know which type of seller I would rather deal with, and I’ve walked away from potential sale when the owner was unwilling to negotiate.

I can learn quite a bit about a prospective bike with a few targeted questions:

• How long have you had the bike and why do you want to sell it? I do not expect people to be honest if they are trying to unload a problematic machine. Generally, if the owner has had the bike less than a year it is a red flag for me. Maybe not a deal killer, but the reason for selling better be believable.
• How many miles have you put on the bike? Who does your maintenance? Ideally, I want to purchase from an enthusiastic owner who cares enough to invest in his motorcycle when it is in his/her care. Questions like these help me determine what kind of owner I'm dealing with.
• What oil do you use and how do you check the oil? I have been surprised and shocked more than once by an owner who doesn’t even know how to check the oil level on his own motorcycle, and who doesn’t know the correct viscosity grade the engine requires. It’s an opportunity for me to educate the owner about his own machine, before I walk away.

• When I go to view a bike, I prefer to see it in the location where it is garaged. I bring a flashlight and check the inside of the fuel tank for rust, and check the brakes for pad thickness and disc condition. I also look for subtle signs of neglect or abuse. Are the sprocket teeth in good condition? Chain rusty? Do the fairing screws all look original, or are some mismatched? I would check for loose wheel spokes, or wheel damage that might indicate a curb strike or collision. Sit on the bike, apply the front brake, and pump the front forks. Suspension noises are not a good sign.
• Buying a motorcycle from a stranger requires an element of trust, on both sides. I won’t consider a bike unless the owner let’s me take it for a test ride. Sometimes there are issues with an owner who demands to hold on to payment while you are out on the road with his bike. That only happened to me once. I brought my adult son to keep the owner company while he held my money. Many times, the owner is satisfied to hold onto my vehicle registration while I am out on the test ride.
  • Out on the test ride, I am evaluating the engine. Does it accelerate smoothly through the rev range?
  • Does the transmission shift positively through all the gears?
  • Does the clutch slip under hard acceleration?
  • Are there weird suspension noises that did not manifest earlier?
  • Are there any other abnormal vibrations or noise that need investigation?
• After all that, if I’m still interested, it is time to negotiate. The deal won’t get this far if the owner has given me any reason whatsoever to question his integrity. If we can agree on a price, then I’ll ask to see the title to the vehicle. I check to see that the address on the title is the address where the motorcycle is garaged, and that the name on the title matches the name of the owner. If not, that’s a red flag and I need to know why not.

By this time, cash is exchanged, the title signed over, and I’m off to my garage to get acquainted with my new ride.

 

Thanks for the list, and for the thorough detail! Only thing I could add is that one might consider moving the title verification near the top of the list since it's both quick and crucial.

 

Whether you check title at the beginning or end, the important thing is that you do it. In my area, for-sale posts sometimes have a disclaimer “bill of sale only.” OK, well, sometimes people aren’t very careful with important documents and stuff. The good news is that in California the DMV has a process for recovering lost title. It involves a form whereby you and the previous owner jointly declare the sale and transfer of ownership. It also requires the previous owner to identify self and swear under oath the legitimacy of his/her ownership. The one and only time that I was about to recover title in this manner, the owner of the bike became instantly disinterested when informed of my intention. Haha, Thank God for little details.

One other thing: if you intend to purchase a vehicle out-of-state, make sure you know your state’s requirements for transfer of title. When I inherited a truck from my Dad, I went to the DMV with the signed title and death certificate. Not good enough. They made me go back to Oregon and get a title in my name, bring that back to California, then they would issue a title to me. Had I known that from the beginning, I could have saved myself a 1200 mile drive.