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Discussion Starter #1
A little community service today...

If anyone is interested in how easy it is to access the air-box/filter, and or remove the front bodywork of the bike, it's not... dozens of sodding bolts (although most are the same size/shape at least) to get all the bitty panels off - and you do need to remove the tank cover and grey side panels as one piece to get the air-box:



Once the panels are off, you can remove the snorkel pretty easily - just two clips on the top and it pivots forward to access the paper filer element inside:



The coolant bottle is much easier to access with the tank/side covers off too, although the handbook does say you can top it up with the fairing in place...




A handy hint that some of you may wish to incorporate, is to remove the side-stand cut-out switch - that way it cannot fail at an inopportune moment (of if it does, at least you'll know which wires to join together to bypass it):


photo. basically join these two: the black/green and yellow/blue wires - leaving the red/green wire free.


photo. with these two wires joined together, the bike will start and run in gear, even with the side-stand switch disconnected, and with no warning light on the dash - result!


Another thing I've incorporated this weekend, which again a number of you may wish to replicate is to wire in a USB socket to the switched Auxiliary connecters next to the headlight:



I bought a pair of female connectors from an ebay seller in Canada that connect directly to the connectors by the side of the headlight. One was wired to my USB socket, the other powers my Garmin GPS cradle, and both are switched with the ignition, which I personally prefer.


photo. plenty of room in the wings of the dash panel for a USB socket and/or a 12v/powerlet socket if you prefer.


photo. plenty of space on top of the headlight for the connectors.

Hope that helps anyone planning something similar...

Jenny x
 

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A handy hint that some of you may wish to incorporate, is to remove the side-stand cut-out switch - that way it cannot fail at an inopportune moment (of if it does, at least you'll know which wires to join together to bypass it):


photo. basically join these two: the black/green and yellow/blue wires - leaving the red/green wire free.


photo. with these two wires joined together, the bike will start and run in gear, even with the side-stand switch disconnected, and with no warning light on the dash - result!


Thanks for this Jenny! You just saved my son today. While out and about, he dismounted mid ride on a break using the “stirrup” method, and snapped the side stand. I recalled reading this post, looked it up, and gave him the details by phone. Back on the road in 10 minutes! Thank you!
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for this Jenny! You just saved my son today. While out and about, he dismounted mid ride on a break using the “stirrup” method, and snapped the side stand. I recalled reading this post, looked it up, and gave him the details by phone. Back on the road in 10 minutes! Thank you!
Glad I could help... apparently the buzz on the internet (for what that is worth) is that the side-stand breaking has started to become an 'issue' and that BMW are looking into things...

In the meantime, it's probably worth anyone jotting down the two wire colours to join, just incase ;o)

Jx
 

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I pulled the side stand switch plug on mine, then put a jumper between the appropriate pins. That way I can easily return to stock if a permanent fix becomes available.
 

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That connector is for two wires but the side stand switch (looking at the photos) appear to be three wires.
the side stand switch uses the same connector as the pre installed connectors beneath the light assembly isn't it? anybody knows how these connectors are called?
 

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the side stand switch uses the same connector as the pre installed connectors beneath the light assembly isn't it? anybody knows how these connectors are called?

I think its an mcon 1.2mm, they come in different configurations 1,2,3,4 wires etc..
 

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A little community service today...

If anyone is interested in how easy it is to access the air-box/filter, and or remove the front bodywork of the bike, it's not... dozens of sodding bolts (although most are the same size/shape at least) to get all the bitty panels off - and you do need to remove the tank cover and grey side panels as one piece to get the air-box:



Once the panels are off, you can remove the snorkel pretty easily - just two clips on the top and it pivots forward to access the paper filer element inside:



The coolant bottle is much easier to access with the tank/side covers off too, although the handbook does say you can top it up with the fairing in place...




A handy hint that some of you may wish to incorporate, is to remove the side-stand cut-out switch - that way it cannot fail at an inopportune moment (of if it does, at least you'll know which wires to join together to bypass it):


photo. basically join these two: the black/green and yellow/blue wires - leaving the red/green wire free.


photo. with these two wires joined together, the bike will start and run in gear, even with the side-stand switch disconnected, and with no warning light on the dash - result!


Another thing I've incorporated this weekend, which again a number of you may wish to replicate is to wire in a USB socket to the switched Auxiliary connecters next to the headlight:



I bought a pair of female connectors from an ebay seller in Canada that connect directly to the connectors by the side of the headlight. One was wired to my USB socket, the other powers my Garmin GPS cradle, and both are switched with the ignition, which I personally prefer.


photo. plenty of room in the wings of the dash panel for a USB socket and/or a 12v/powerlet socket if you prefer.


photo. plenty of space on top of the headlight for the connectors.

Hope that helps anyone planning something similar...

Jenny x
Jenny, thank you for the tip how to disconnect the side stand switch, but is it possible to disconnect it from the top and take the whole thing out? I did it in crf, as the switch was making problem and the bike did not start thinking that the side stand has not been lifted. so i just took the whole **** thing out with the help of my mechanic.

ps. you wrote the there is danger that the bike will start with gears on without warning light, etc. you probably meant that the bike will start when the side stand is still on the floor, right? the bike will not move with 1st gear engaged unless you press the clutch; different switch is responsible for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Jenny, thank you for the tip how to disconnect the side stand switch, but is it possible to disconnect it from the top and take the whole thing out? I did it in crf, as the switch was making problem and the bike did not start thinking that the side stand has not been lifted. so i just took the whole **** thing out with the help of my mechanic.

ps. you wrote the there is danger that the bike will start with gears on without warning light, etc. you probably meant that the bike will start when the side stand is still on the floor, right? the bike will not move with 1st gear engaged unless you press the clutch; different switch is responsible for it.
Hi Kris - when you say 'the top', if you mean simply disconnect the wire to the side-stand switch from the loom connector, you won't be able to start the bike in gear unless it's in neutral - you need to join the blue/yellow and black/green wires to do this - hence why I created my own jumper using the original tail from the side-stand switch wiring.

This is what I meant about starting the bike in gear (obviously you need to pull the clutch in to do this) - but if you don't join the two wires, it won't start unless it's in neutral.

Hope that clarifies things!

Jenny x
 

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Hi Kris - when you say 'the top', if you mean simply disconnect the wire to the side-stand switch from the loom connector, you won't be able to start the bike in gear unless it's in neutral - you need to join the blue/yellow and black/green wires to do this - hence why I created my own jumper using the original tail from the side-stand switch wiring.

This is what I meant about starting the bike in gear (obviously you need to pull the clutch in to do this) - but if you don't join the two wires, it won't start unless it's in neutral.

Hope that clarifies things!

Jenny x
Thank you Jenny. from what i remember with crf, my mechanic disconnected the connecting switch under the seat and took all the wiring out, and it did the trick. i don't know if would work with gs? here is a picture. as you can nothing is there anymore from the wiring.
 

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actually what i think my mechanic did was joining the two wires at the top, not the bottom, so i could get ride all the other wiring near the kick stand. i will ask him how he did it tomorrow. not sure if the wiring is the same in gs as in crf.
 

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actually what i think my mechanic did was joining the two wires at the top, not the bottom, so i could get ride all the other wiring near the kick stand. i will ask him how he did it tomorrow. not sure if the wiring is the same in gs as in crf. bmw like to do things there own way. from youtube I watched, in crf there are only 2 wires that need to be soldered to create by-pass. in gs, there seems to be that additional red wire. what is its function?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
actually what i think my mechanic did was joining the two wires at the top, not the bottom, so i could get ride all the other wiring near the kick stand. i will ask him how he did it tomorrow. not sure if the wiring is the same in gs as in crf. bmw like to do things there own way. from youtube I watched, in crf there are only 2 wires that need to be soldered to create by-pass. in gs, there seems to be that additional red wire. what is its function?
Hi Kris - that is what I did in the description/photos you linked to above - removed the switch and the wiring from the side stand all the way up to the loom connector behind the right hand side panel, and created a jumper to join the two wires (black/green and blue/yellow) together so that the bike will start in gear as well as neutral, which is required on the BMW (and on bikes like Ducati* too for example) as the clutch and side stand switch are linked.

The third wire (green/red in my photo) is just left alone, as it doesn't seem to do anything to be honest! - although putting a piece of heat-shrink over the end is a good idea to stop it potentially shorting on anything if it is live at any point.


*note. there are commercially available jumper 'plugs' made for certain bikes (there was for my Ducati Monster for example), but what I did above is essentially made my own from the now defunct side-stand switch connector and two pieces of heat-shrink and some solder.

Hope that clarifies things...

Jenny x
 

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Hi Kris - that is what I did in the description/photos you linked to above - removed the switch and the wiring from the side stand all the way up to the loom connector behind the right hand side panel, and created a jumper to join the two wires (black/green and blue/yellow) together so that the bike will start in gear as well as neutral, which is required on the BMW (and on bikes like Ducati* too for example) as the clutch and side stand switch are linked.

The third wire (green/red in my photo) is just left alone, as it doesn't seem to do anything to be honest! - although putting a piece of heat-shrink over the end is a good idea to stop it potentially shorting on anything if it is live at any point.


*note. there are commercially available jumper 'plugs' made for certain bikes (there was for my Ducati Monster for example), but what I did above is essentially made my own from the now defunct side-stand switch connector and two pieces of heat-shrink and some solder.

Hope that clarifies things...

Jenny x
sorry, i thought that you joined those wires near the kick stand (on the picture it is looks like it is close to the oil filler plug). so to access that plug, I need to remove the right panels? i would think it should be on the left side, same side as the kick stand...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
sorry, i thought that you joined those wires near the kick stand (on the picture it is looks like it is close to the oil filler plug). so to access that plug, I need to remove the right panels?
The oil filler plug is on the right hand side of the bike Kris ;o)

The wire from the side stand switch goes behind the engine and up to a loom connector tucked behind the right hand side panel, near the rear brake fluid reservoir.

Once you've unclipped the wire and connector there is enough length to the wiring to put it out to cut/heat shrink the connection as per my photo, and then tuck it back in behind the panel.

Jx
 

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The oil filler plug is on the right hand side of the bike Kris ;o)

The wire from the side stand switch goes behind the engine and up to a loom connector tucked behind the right hand side panel, near the rear brake fluid reservoir.

Once you've unclipped the wire and connector there is enough length to the wiring to put it out to cut/heat shrink the connection as per my photo, and then tuck it back in behind the panel.

Jx
yes, of course, i am a bit spaced out today. thanks a lot for that explanation, highly appreciated!
 
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