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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, Does anyone know the size of rear wheel nut? Need to adjust chain and don’t have a big enough socket to torque it when I am finished
 

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If you torque the axle nut to 100Nm you will never get it undone with the spanner on the trail if you need to remove a wheel.
If you intend to do any trips, use only the spanners you carry to tighten the nuts whilst in the workshop, that way you won't have any problems when you need to undo them later, using your foot as leverage to tighten and undo with the spanner on wheel nuts is OK
We ended up making our own wheel spanners as the toolkit supplied with the bike was not good enough for removing the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you torque the axle nut to 100Nm you will never get it undone with the spanner on the trail if you need to remove a wheel.
If you intend to do any trips, use only the spanners you carry to tighten the nuts whilst in the workshop, that way you won't have any problems when you need to undo them later, using your foot as leverage to tighten and undo with the spanner on wheel nuts is OK
We ended up making our own wheel spanners as the toolkit supplied with the bike was not good enough for removing the wheels.
That’s a great tip, will need to keep that in mind
 

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A 1-1/16" socket is 26.99mm, so if you just want a socket to use at home instead of the factory tool, you may already have what you need in your large SAE socket set :wink2:
 

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A 1-1/16" socket is 26.99mm, so if you just want a socket to use at home instead of the factory tool, you may already have what you need in your large SAE socket set :wink2:
Buy a metric socket set. That way you'll always have the right socket for the job and won't have rounded nuts.
And America, come on, go metric. You're left behind...
 

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Buy a metric socket set. That way you'll always have the right socket for the job and won't have rounded nuts.
And America, come on, go metric. You're left behind...
You totally missed the point. It's a given that everyone here already has a metric socket set if they wrench on their bike. It's not a given that all of those sets will contain a 27mm, many top out somewhere between 20 and 24mm. The 1 1/16" fits slightly tighter than the 27mm, there is no chance of rounding the nut out, ever. Nobody is going to be dumb enough to try and turn 10,12,14mm nuts with SAE sockets.
 

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A 1-1/16" socket is 26.99mm, so if you just want a socket to use at home instead of the factory tool, you may already have what you need in your large SAE socket set :wink2:
Hi Centsational,

In contrast, a Japanese dealer mechanic said that he likes 15/16 inch socket for 24mm rear axle nut due to its tighter fit. (note 15/16 inch = 23.8mm)

Since 24mm and up hand socket is not common for 3/8 drive, I've been using 1/2 drive impact sockets and spinner handles for applications that space allows.

By the way, do you guys in north America happen to have large size SAE sockets at home for non-automotive application?
 

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Most guys here in continental Europe buy an inch nut box, when they are screwing on their old Ford Mustangs, Dodges, Willies ....
or the British Patented Rovers, Jag's or so!:smile2:


But don't confuse "inch" with "customs", when you buy your tools! In german it's the same: "Zoll" 0:)
 

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Here in Canada, most consumer or semi-pro socket kits are combo metric & SAE (Society of Auto Engeneer)

We went metric in the ‘70s but our neibours are still not sure it’s a good idea.....

Still, it’s pretty rare I use them, mostly when working on old stuff
 

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Hi Centsational,

In contrast, a Japanese dealer mechanic said that he likes 15/16 inch socket for 24mm rear axle nut due to its tighter fit. (note 15/16 inch = 23.8mm)

Since 24mm and up hand socket is not common for 3/8 drive, I've been using 1/2 drive impact sockets and spinner handles for applications that space allows.

By the way, do you guys in north America happen to have large size SAE sockets at home for non-automotive application?
The 1 1/16" socket just happens to be the size required to change the anode in a household hot water tank :wink2: Being that Canada is a metric country and that I nearly exclusively drive Japanese vehicles, I don't have a great need for SAE sockets, but I do have a couple sets of them just to cover my bases. I changed the rear sprocket of the 310 this evening to a 39T, and it sure seems like they used 15/32" bolts. The 11mm would not fit, and the 12mm had quite a bit of wobble. Once again, the SAE sockets came in handy...I felt there was a good chance of distorting the edges of the bolts/nuts with a 12mm socket.
 

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How do you find the 39 tooth performs.?
I wish I could tell you. My insurance ran out in November, and I won't re-insure until March or April. The 39T represents gearing-up by 2.5%, but I've dropped nearly 5% off the weight of the bike, as well as (hopefully) added some power with the Akra race exhaust. The theory is slightly lower RPM at a given highway speed, but counteracting the resulting slower acceleration by dropping static weight and adding a little power.

Plan B is I go buy an MT-09 instead :grin2:
 
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