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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed the stainless steel Akra and it is really greatly made. However, the sound with baffle in is a bit too low. Has anyone tried to remove the baffle? It is not so easy in this system.

I cut the attachments from the stock pipe, welded them, and bolted in the oem heat shield. works very nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
by the way the, SS is so much nicer than carbon one. the carbon is going to crack anytime if you hit a stone, or just without any reason.
 

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the baffle is not see through, like in carbon version. the only way I see to open it, is to drill through or burn hole with the welding stick. but then there is no way back.
 

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I just installed the stainless steel Akra and it is really greatly made. However, the sound with baffle in is a bit too low. Has anyone tried to remove the baffle? It is not so easy in this system.
Wow, the heat sheild looks nice and well executed. Wonder why they did not included that in the Akra system.



BTW i have just installed the carbon fiber one on my 310GS and even with baffle ON, its makes so much sound that i want to reduce it. Much easier to remove the baffle there, and without baffle, its really really loud where one would need earplugs for sure. I guess the cat con on the SS Akra would be muffling the sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, the heat sheild looks nice and well executed. Wonder why they did not included that in the Akra system.



BTW i have just installed the carbon fiber one on my 310GS and even with baffle ON, its makes so much sound that i want to reduce it. Much easier to remove the baffle there, and without baffle, its really really loud where one would need earplugs for sure. I guess the cat con on the SS Akra would be muffling the sound.
The SS Akra is more quiet with DB killer than Carbon version. The carbon slip-on baffle is hollow inside. I would like just a bit more sound, but it will be for sure better for my failing hearing to leave the baffle on.

as to the shield, you can easily fix it yourself. just cut the old connectors from the small shield and weld them in the Akra. I payed 2 usd for this job, but in your country it might be a bit more :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
after getting used to it, I am very happy with the sound of stainless steel Akra. it is more quiet that carbon version ( with db killer) but it is still very nice and of a much higher quality than carbon one and looks amazing. i have like 6 bikes with aftermarket exhausts, but this one looks the best.
 

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after getting used to it, I am very happy with the sound of stainless steel Akra. it is more quiet that carbon version ( with db killer) but it is still very nice and of a much higher quality than carbon one and looks amazing. i have like 6 bikes with aftermarket exhausts, but this one looks the best.
I should have maybe opted for the SS akra, but as per the specs the ss was much heavier compared to carbon and did not make much performance difference. I am running on the Carbon akra with baffles inplace, still the noise is a bit too loud for my liking. Guess will have to live with it.
 

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@Kris I have the SS Akra as well, was too quiet with DB killer, much nicer and deeper sound now without the DB killer and not excessively loud at all. Since I couldn't get any info online at the time, I asked the shop I bought it through to do the conversion. In short, the db killer is attached with a bolt in the same manner as the carbon version, only difference is that the bolt is not exposed under the carbon cap. So theoretically, you will need drill through the carbon end cap, inline with the bolt, and then use a good quality Allen key to break a spot weld which keeps the bolt in place. Add a rubber end cap and you have converted your Akra back from Euro 5 to Euro 4 standards with a removable baffle :)

- Sound clip
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I should have maybe opted for the SS akra, but as per the specs the ss was much heavier compared to carbon and did not make much performance difference. I am running on the Carbon akra with baffles inplace, still the noise is a bit too loud for my liking. Guess will have to live with it.
francoisps, Thank you the clip. So you did manage to remove the db killer? i thought before that it is not bolted but welded. do you have also the catalytic fitted? this would make the bike really quiet. I don't have one. I actually enjoy the quiet sound, with gentle beat, as in all my other bikes I need to ride with ear plugs. but a bit louder sound could be welcome.

the problem with accessing the db killer is that one has to drill the rivets, and I don't have spare ones. your bike does sound very nice. where did you get the rivets?
 

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@Kris The shop i took it to managed to remove the db killer. They didn't want to drill a hole in the carbon fiber end cap, even though I requested this so that I can put the db killer back if I needed to. They instead drilled out the rivets. I anticipated this and bought blind rivets from Akra via their local distributor in AU. The rivets are called p-br 1. I didn't like the "metal" sounds(typical BMW) with the db killer installed. Also wanted more low rev sound for helping with awareness when going through traffic, I found with the DB killer installed the bike was only noisy at high RPM, not great for traffic. If you can line up the hole you have to make in the carbon end cap with the bolt, you have a fair chance of getting the baffle out without drilling any rivets.

It is mildly noisy when riding without earplugs but I ride with earplug all the time anyway as wind noise in a helmet is damaging to your hearing and also increases fatigue. I do love the added sounds especially the popping sounds when engine braking.

I don't have a cat fitted. cat would make it quieter but also add weight and decrease performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
@Kris The shop i took it to managed to remove the db killer. They didn't want to drill a hole in the carbon fiber end cap, even though I requested this so that I can put the db killer back if I needed to. They instead drilled out the rivets. I anticipated this and bought blind rivets from Akra via their local distributor in AU. The rivets are called p-br 1. I didn't like the "metal" sounds(typical BMW) with the db killer installed. Also wanted more low rev sound for helping with awareness when going through traffic, I found with the DB killer installed the bike was only noisy at high RPM, not great for traffic. If you can line up the hole you have to make in the carbon end cap with the bolt, you have a fair chance of getting the baffle out without drilling any rivets.

It is mildly noisy when riding without earplugs but I ride with earplug all the time anyway as wind noise in a helmet is damaging to your hearing and also increases fatigue. I do love the added sounds especially the popping sounds when engine braking.

I don't have a cat fitted. cat would make it quieter but also add weight and decrease performance.
Great. Thank you. But from what I see, P-BR1 is just one blind revet. How many of these one would need? What do you think about the idea of just drilling through the baffle, so it is see-through and gives more noise?
 

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@Kris, you can count them on the exhaust, I seem to remember 7 per side. The idea with drilling through the carbon end cap is so that you can expose the bolt, if you then break the weld on the bolt, you can remove the baffle but also re insert it when required(for legal/preference). I would then cover the hole with a rubber plug/bung. The exhaust would then be the same as any other akra with a removable baffle. We didn't go with drilling for the bolt as I could find no info online as to the location of the bolt and did not want to risk unnecessary holes in the carbon. Knowing now where the bolt sits I would be willing to drill the carbon rather than disassemble the exhaust.

Rubber plug example:
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/rubber+plug+akrapovic+end+cap+_akra0014
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@Kris, you can count them on the exhaust, I seem to remember 7 per side. The idea with drilling through the carbon end cap is so that you can expose the bolt, if you then break the weld on the bolt, you can remove the baffle but also re insert it when required(for legal/preference). I would then cover the hole with a rubber plug/bung. The exhaust would then be the same as any other akra with a removable baffle. We didn't go with drilling for the bolt as I could find no info online as to the location of the bolt and did not want to risk unnecessary holes in the carbon. Knowing now where the bolt sits I would be willing to drill the carbon rather than disassemble the exhaust.

Rubber plug example:
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/rubber+plug+akrapovic+end+cap+_akra0014
francoisps, thanks! So do you know now on which side of the carbon end is the welded screw?
 

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@Kris, If you look at the inside of the baffle, you will notice 3 bulges, the bolt is in 1 of them as you can see on the attached photo. It will be in the bulge closest to the wheel of the bike, i.e. bolt points towards the bottom of the back wheel. I would assume this is by design so that the bung/plug would be in the least visible but still accessible spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@Kris, If you look at the inside of the baffle, you will notice 3 bulges, the bolt is in 1 of them as you can see on the attached photo. It will be in the bulge closest to the wheel of the bike, i.e. bolt points towards the bottom of the back wheel. I would assume this is by design so that the bung/plug would be in the least visible but still accessible spot.
Thanks a lot. This is very helpful. But how do you unscrew a welded bolt? turning it back and forth?
 

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Only anti clockwise(loosen) but with a good quality and exact size allen key, as you need a fair bit of force without the allen key slipping/breaking. The allen key will probably need a bit of leverage as well.
 

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Only anti clockwise(loosen) but with a good quality and exact size allen key, as you need a fair bit of force without the allen key slipping/breaking. The allen key will probably need a bit of leverage as well.
but it looks like an ordinary bolt, not allen one, based on the photo you sent.
 

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ordinary bolt from the on the outside, but you would have to drill a bit hole to get a socket through. It is definitely allen key in the middle, I can check the size in 90 mins.
 

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ordinary bolt from the on the outside, but you would have to drill a bit hole to get a socket through. It is definitely allen key in the middle, I can check the size in 90 mins.
it seems very complicated. ordinary bolt on the outside, and allen bolt on the inside?
 

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@Kris pictures should explain it better. You need a 5/32 allen key. You can also make out the residue from the spot weld in the pic. The second pic confirms the position of the bulge that contains the bolt.
 

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