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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The issue I've been having is that when I try to get out of the city into the countryside, (about a 30 minute drive with all the stoplights etc.) my 2018 G310GS with only about 2k on the odometer starts running rough, and bucking like it doesn't have enough fuel, or air, or something. It seems to happen when I've sustained 40-50+mph for a little while and then roll off the throttle, or sometimes even without rolling off.
Here's a video:

The BMW mechanic in my area has been trying to figure this out for weeks, but so far there's no smoking gun. For a minute he thought it could be the throttle sensor, but his diagnostic equipment got the same readings from 2019 310GS that came into the shop. BMW HQ hasn't been helpful, it's just waiting for other reports.

Looking for any info - similar experiences, things to try, etc.

Thank you,
George
 

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Sounds like a fueling issue. Maybe your injector is dirty. You don’t have to many miles on that bike, and the fuel that we have in the US blended with 10-20% ethanol, if you don’t ride your bike regularly that fuel can cause the injector to gum up . I would put a bottle of “sea foam” or a different injector cleaner in the fuel and run it gently for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like a fueling issue. Maybe your injector is dirty. You don’t have to many miles on that bike, and the fuel that we have in the US blended with 10-20% ethanol, if you don’t ride your bike regularly that fuel can cause the injector to gum up . I would put a bottle of “sea foam” or a different injector cleaner in the fuel and run it gently for a while.
Ok thanks for the idea. It's at the shop still so I'll pass it on. Is there a reason that would only be a problem in that speed range though, and only when running for at least 30 minutes? My mechanic couldn't reproduce what is shown in the video when he took it out on the highway, but I don't think he rode it for as long.
 

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The issue I've been having is that when I try to get out of the city into the countryside, (about a 30 minute drive with all the stoplights etc.) my 2018 G310GS with only about 2k on the odometer starts running rough, and bucking like it doesn't have enough fuel, or air, or something. It seems to happen when I've sustained 40-50+mph for a little while and then roll off the throttle, or sometimes even without rolling off.
Here's a video:

The BMW mechanic in my area has been trying to figure this out for weeks, but so far there's no smoking gun. For a minute he thought it could be the throttle sensor, but his diagnostic equipment got the same readings from 2019 310GS that came into the shop. BMW HQ hasn't been helpful, it's just waiting for other reports.

Looking for any info - similar experiences, things to try, etc.

Thank you,
George
Perhaps this may help? My friend had an intermittent throttle position sensor that would cause the bike to run rough and die after sufficient riding. Replacing the sensor fixed it.
 

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Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I have a similar problem (I created a post earlier today). Mine has 200 miles on it and it does the same thing after 10 minutes. I drained the tank (I figured the gas must be old on a 2018 with 200 miles), replaced the fuel filter and ran some carb cleaner through the injector but it hasn't gotten any better. Mine also blows a lot of blue smoke out the tail pipe when it's acting up.

I didn't check the spark plug, but I'll try that once I figure out which spark plug socket will fit.
 

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A little late to this. But I was having a similar issue. Took it in for repair last week and I just spoke with them. They said they found a wire in the harness that was rubbing on the frame. Repaired it and seems to have fixed the problem. I’m going to pick it up in the morning. Hopefully it’s all good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I have a similar problem (I created a post earlier today). Mine has 200 miles on it and it does the same thing after 10 minutes. I drained the tank (I figured the gas must be old on a 2018 with 200 miles), replaced the fuel filter and ran some carb cleaner through the injector but it hasn't gotten any better. Mine also blows a lot of blue smoke out the tail pipe when it's acting up.

I didn't check the spark plug, but I'll try that once I figure out which spark plug socket will fit.
My local BMW shop checked a lot and couldn't find anything, so I took it back.
Here's what they did:
  • Checked various connections for physical damage at
    • O2 sendor coupler, DME
    • Secondary air valve sensor coupler, DME
    • Throttle valve sensor coupler, DME
    • Crakshaft position sensor coupler, DME
  • No physical damage but TPS sensor seems to be unresponsive after using oscilloscope for testing. Also noticed and insulation failure between DME and TPS. TPS tested fine, no need to replace
  • Changed spark plug due to looking fouled, perhaps the plug was faulty with internal issue with insulation
  • Test rode, bike was fine
So they said the did all the could and there was no smoking gun, but the issue was still happening. The fact that they can't reproduce it got me thinking again that maybe it's me, so I tried switching up how I shifted. Before, I was being so careful not to lug it that I think I was shifting too late. On this recent ride, I started shifting to 4th at around 30mph, 5th at 40mph and 6th at around 50mph. This kept it in the 4-5k rpm range, which sounded better and rode smoother - it only had the hiccup once and barely. I thought, it seems like a machine like this should be able to handle the 6-7k rpms for awhile, but maybe not? Maybe I'd solved it??

But then last time I went out, I had the issue again, going up a long hill. Not as violent, but definitely still there.
I should check for blue smoke too, that might give a clue to the mechanics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Perhaps this may help? My friend had an intermittent throttle position sensor that would cause the bike to run rough and die after sufficient riding. Replacing the sensor fixed it.
Do you happen to know if your friend or their mechanic tested the TPS? My mechanic did and said it tested fine, but maybe it's still bad anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A little late to this. But I was having a similar issue. Took it in for repair last week and I just spoke with them. They said they found a wire in the harness that was rubbing on the frame. Repaired it and seems to have fixed the problem. I’m going to pick it up in the morning. Hopefully it’s all good.
Very interesting! Your issue was similar to what's in my video? Did it happen all the time, or only after running awhile?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: issue absolutely seems to be heat related. I thought it was resolved after service in the fall, as it was running well this spring, but now that summer temps are up to 85-90F in Maine, it's doing it just as much as it was last summer. what a bummer.
 

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That video is very indicative of an intermittent mixture change in fuel delivery or intermittent ignition as opposed to continuous rough running that would be related to an off fuel mixture (ie. Too lean).
You make no mention of the shop saying there were any failure codes so I am going to assume there was no Check Engine light and therefore no codes registered.
So it sounds like a sensing device is sending an incorrect signal to the computer once it gets hot. Given others have had Throttle Position Sensor issues and you said that It was unresponsive after oscilloscope testing, I would try changing it out. It’s possible that an ignition coil could also start going bad but I think that misfires should have shown up as a fault code. Therefore far more suspicious of the throttle position sensor.
 

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No sooty plugs or exhaust allowed. Running rich will take out your catalytic converter, cause all sort issues. Solve the rich running. Is the ECU in limp mode? Coolant temp sensor? Oxygen sensor ? You not always get a code, this is a very simpleton ECU. Sensors and actuators need to be tested. Your technician needs to get to it with scan tool and DVOM. I’d check the valve clearance, fuel system if no blaring electronic gremlin. Bummer this didn’t get addressed under warranty.
Good Luck
 

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I thought, it seems like a machine like this should be able to handle the 6-7k rpms for awhile, but maybe not?
All day long.

I'm usually 5-7k around town.

Highway I will ride for hours at 7-8k.

And that's cruising rpm. When feeling sporty I'll often shift somewhere between 8k and Snowflake.

This bike feels like two entirely different motorcycles <5k vs >6k. I feel safest where the power is, as the throttle is often more useful than the brake for keeping alive around cage drivers.
 

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The power band is what I enjoy the most on the 310. Like my olden times RD 350. Your wasting time under 6k and real run is from 8k to snowflake. It doesn’t run out of power!
Like operating a wild racer but when you look down your only doing 80 mph not 120 a substantial difference in the ticket you’ll earn here.
Makes me smile. If I want to giggle I ride my 18 hp Van Van
 

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You guys are making me jealous. I want mine fixed!
But also, doesn't the sound above 6k bug you? My exhaust gets kind of buzzy, I don't know if that's normal.
We're all advised to wear appropriate motorcycle ear protection. Engineered to squelch engine and wind, while allowing enough hearing for safety (horns, sirens, your pillion screaming as they fly off the back, etc.)

I'll admit, I too rarely have mine in. But when first adjusting to the 310 I wore mine often.

Again, for lifetime hearing, they say we oughta always have it in. 🤷‍♂️
 

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We're all advised to wear appropriate motorcycle ear protection. Engineered to squelch engine and wind, while allowing enough hearing for safety (horns, sirens, your pillion screaming as they fly off the back, etc.)

I'll admit, I too rarely have mine in. But when first adjusting to the 310 I wore mine often.

Again, for lifetime hearing, they say we oughta always have it in. 🤷‍♂️
Always wear ear plugs if I go anywhere that has 80km/h+ zones.
 
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