TrailMax Tires in Mud! Removal of front fender?

3334 Views 59 Replies 11 Participants Last post by rcat, 2 d ago

JerryG

Discussion Starter · 6 mo ago

TrailMax Tires: After 8,000 miles, I've been very happy with my TrailMax Tires, but, until a couple days ago, I've avoided using them in mud because I was told that they don't shed mud well enough for use in mud. A couple days ago, I did some mud training and I can confirm that TrailMax tires don't shed mud well. So, I can recommend them only if you avoid or rarely ride in mud. As for me, I'll be switching back to TKC80s at my next tire change because I anticipate more mud in my future.

Front Fender: On a related note, I've noticed in various videos that mud accumulation between the front tire and a close fender can cause that tire to lock up and that the fender makes mud removal very difficult. This has me thinking I should remove the front lower fender from my 310GS. Has anyone removed the front fender on their 310GS? Are there any pros and cons that doing so has revealed?

Thanks.

Reactions: 1

41 - 60 of 60 Posts

rcat

· #41 · 1 mo ago

normanzb said:
i originally printed a few sets with PLA but they were not strong enough, after some heavy vibration and exposure to sunlight they eventually give. i then tweaked a bit the weak bits and use pa12 nylon instead, now they are there for months and working great!

Oh, didn't know you're on this forum! Thanks for the info! The design looks great. I'm going to try with PETG and see how it turns out. Not sure my extruder is up for pa12 nylon but now I might have an excuse to upgrade it!

Reactions: 1

JerryG

Discussion Starter · #42 · 1 mo ago

The design is looks much more protective than my remove-the-top-of-my-lower-fender-and-keep-the-sides version, but I'm not into 3D printing. If it could be done reasonably economically, I'd be glad to pay for a set.

Reactions: 1

ARBOLMANO

· #43 · 1 mo ago

Although perhaps not as evidenced in mud, a serious aspect of off road effectiveness for the 310 is being overlooked in this discussion. That being traction and tire preussure. Traction is everything off road and hard to achieve without riding in balance. That’s technique and learned. But having correct suspension is important for traction potential as is contact patch of tire. Being able to lower your tire pressure can well be the difference between making it up a hill and not. The outbound spoke tubeless rims are thought to vulnerable to getting dinged with low preussure thus the advantages of lowering tire preussure is not utilized!! May or may not be issue depending on where your headed(or not).
If setting your bike up for more off road, spoke rims are near mandatory but perhaps not the outer mount spoke type (BMW). The thing to look at is the more dirt oriented bikes. Very very few come tubeless and those that do do not utilize the out board spoke. There are superior designs out now. But not cheap, about double of the BMW knock offs.
Note: not talking Adventure bikes but real plated dirt bikes that could compete. Eg KTM 500exc etc. Having to go with tubes and rim locks is a total drag unless you need that traction.
Think long and hard about trying to make the 310 into a dirt bike. It’s an exceptional Adventure bike, more capable than many due to weight. But it’s also fully a 100lbs heavier than most dirt bikes, a serious handicap. Start adding your traveling gear and your going to be trying to get a Hippo to climb hills, just no fun. If your finding that your digging off road and it’s accessible, it could be smart to spend money on a second bike rather than dump large sums into the 310 to convert it from “ Uber Adventure“ to ”tolerable dual sport”.
Jerry has shown that it is possible to make the 310 work and truly “it’s the rider, not the bike”
It’s one of those “correct tool for job at hand things”. It’s just more pleasure when you’ve the right bike set up rather than fighting “well this works” not to mention effectiveness Or cost.
As a light Adventure bike the 310 is excellent out of the box, if lightly sprung for most (like 90% of street motos). And quite attractive in price. Enjoy it and see where it takes you.
Look close at Jerry’s build out, add the cost of improving your 310 to his level and then ride your bike a bunch before making any decisions.

See less See more

JerryG

Discussion Starter · #44 · 1 mo ago

Traction...check
Tire pressure...check except see below
Technique...check
Suspension...check
Street legal dirt bike...I'll stick with my adventure bike for now: I felt great after my 7,023 mile trip on my G310GS last June; I don't like to think about how I would have felt after that distance a street legal dirt bike.
Outbound spoke rims...aka cross-spoke rims because they go from one side of the hub to the other side of the rim (tubeless because that angle allows the spokes go through the edge of the rim on the outside of the tire).
Cross-spoke tubeless rims vs other designs...if you want tubeless, cross-spoke rims are superior because you don't have to hope that the sealed spoke holes stay sealed.
Cross-spoke tubeless rims vulnerable with low pressure...most of that discussion focuses on the rim vulnerability of aired-down big heavy adventure bikes. Small bikes can get away with airing down; big bikes not so much. A sub-400 lbs G310GS with cross-spoke rims (like mine) isn't a big heavy adventure bike, but it's not a 300 lbs street legal dirt bike either. I tried airing down in Death Valley. I was supposed to feel less rebound as I hit rocks and stuff. What I felt was marginal at best. I doubt if I'll air down my G310GS on rocky terrain in the future. On the other hand, if I was facing a serious stretch of sand or mud, I would likely air down and hope there isn't a hidden rock.
Build out the 310GS vs two bikes...I can't ride two bikes 7,023 miles, so I built out the 310GS be a proper sub-400 lbs adventure bike, not a dirt bike, just a proper sub-400 lbs adventure bike. If you want to read about someone who does this well, I'm just a noob, look up "JMo (& piglet)" on advrider.com: She did it with a Honda CB500X, then a G310GS, and she's now doing it with a Honda 300L.
Having fun...hope all of you are too...check.

See less See more

VAdadofthr33

· #45 · 1 mo ago

Much of the wheel tech discussion on here is reaching beyond any skill set that I have. If the discussion is coming up on tube vs tubeless, something that may be worth looking at is the tubliss system. I have had it on my gasgas 200 for probably close to 10 years now. It runs a very small tube on the rim itself to seal the wheel/spoke/tire assembly and then it allows you to run with what ever pressure or lack thereof that you might like. (the small tube maintains pressure of about 100-110 psi and then you have a separate stem for the cavity of the tube). I often run my gasgas with 0 pressure in it for mud/rock riding and will air up to about 12-15 otherwise and its a gem. It still provides protection but you can get all of the benefits. If I rode more I would likely mull over whether this could be used on the 310. I am sure someone has tried it by now. The only issue is that the small tube bleeds air out slowly and it should be checked every ride to make sure that it doesnt bleed down. Dont know if that has changed at all since i put my original system on but I have been a big fan of it. Eliminates unrideable flats on the trail which is not the thing that you want to experience in the middle of nowhere.

See less See more

Gillard from Oz

· #46 · 29 d ago

JerryG said:
Traction...check
Tire pressure...check except see below
Technique...check
Suspension...check
Street legal dirt bike...I'll stick with my adventure bike for now: I felt great after my 7,023 mile trip on my G310GS last June; I don't like to think about how I would have felt after that distance a street legal dirt bike.
Outbound spoke rims...aka cross-spoke rims because they go from one side of the hub to the other side of the rim (tubeless because that angle allows the spokes go through the edge of the rim on the outside of the tire).
Cross-spoke tubeless rims vs other designs...if you want tubeless, cross-spoke rims are superior because you don't have to hope that the sealed spoke holes stay sealed.
Cross-spoke tubeless rims vulnerable with low pressure...most of that discussion focuses on the rim vulnerability of aired-down big heavy adventure bikes. Small bikes can get away with airing down; big bikes not so much. A sub-400 lbs G310GS with cross-spoke rims (like mine) isn't a big heavy adventure bike, but it's not a 300 lbs street legal dirt bike either. I tried airing down in Death Valley. I was supposed to feel less rebound as I hit rocks and stuff. What I felt was marginal at best. I doubt if I'll air down my G310GS on rocky terrain in the future. On the other hand, if I was facing a serious stretch of sand or mud, I would likely air down and hope there isn't a hidden rock.
Build out the 310GS vs two bikes...I can't ride two bikes 7,023 miles, so I built out the 310GS be a proper sub-400 lbs adventure bike, not a dirt bike, just a proper sub-400 lbs adventure bike. If you want to read about someone who does this well, I'm just a noob, look up "JMo (& piglet)" on advrider.com: She did it with a Honda CB500X, then a G310GS, and she's now doing it with a Honda 300L.
Having fun...hope all of you are too...check.

G310GS, road legal and a dirt bike? I'm confused:

Reactions: 1

JerryG

Discussion Starter · #47 · 29 d ago

If you listen carefully, he made it "look like a dirt bike". It's a shame he didn't team with Rally Raid to up it's performance specs. I would love to have the single piece body panel as long as it comes off easily, though I would not want fiberglass; it don't care how flexible the top layer is, it's going to crack when it crashes off-road. I also like the headlight cover, again, for easy access. I've really grown to detest the how hard BMW made it to get under the tank cover or under the front plastics. But that's the price for making it look like it's big GS brothers.

Gillard from Oz

· #48 · 29 d ago

For the record, I was trying to be sarcastic ; - )

JerryG

Discussion Starter · #49 · 29 d ago

Sorry, I got that and didn't mean to suggest otherwise. On the other hand, street legal dirt bike is normal terminology here in the states. I just means the manufacturer has added just enough to be street legal (lights, horn, indicators, etc.) to do short stints between one dirt area and another, but it's on-road performance is painful, quite literally if you're going any distance.

JerryG

Discussion Starter · #50 · 29 d ago

P.S. If you've read this thread from the start, you know that my focus has been to make my G310GS a very capable sub-400 pound (182 kg) adventure bike. Much to my pleasure, and sometimes dismay, I often end up riding with street legal dirt bikes and have to be careful what I let them get me into. Below was March 24th. I'm on the right; the street legal dirt rider on the left is pacing me "just in case". Others, also on street legal dirt bikes, are scattered along the route. I was the only noob on this particular Death Valley Noobs Rally ride (noob being slang for an inexperienced rider), so they were making sure I didn't get in trouble. We're descending the Darwin Toll Road from Darwin to Panamint Valley near Death Valley, California. At least here, it looks like a road; where we started, it just looked like one of many ravines.

Sky Plant community Mountain Bedrock Formation

See less See more

Reactions: 1

normanzb

· #51 · 28 d ago

JerryG said:
If you listen carefully, he made it "look like a dirt bike". It's a shame he didn't team with Rally Raid to up it's performance specs. I would love to have the single piece body panel as long as it comes off easily, though I would not want fiberglass; it don't care how flexible the top layer is, it's going to crack when it crashes off-road. I also like the headlight cover, again, for easy access. I've really grown to detest the how hard BMW made it to get under the tank cover or under the front plastics. But that's the price for making it look like it's big GS brothers.

for the headlamp you can actually buy it, it is from acerbis if i remember correctly, i wanted to fit a rally tower style front actually, but i don't have the disposable money at the moment for the trials and errors

normanzb

· #52 · 28 d ago

JerryG said:
P.S. If you've read this thread from the start, you know that my focus has been to make my G310GS a very capable sub-400 pound (182 kg) adventure bike. Much to my pleasure, and sometimes dismay, I often end up riding with street legal dirt bikes and have to be careful what I let them get me into. Below was March 24th. I'm on the right; the street legal dirt rider on the left is pacing me "just in case". Others, also on street legal dirt bikes, are scattered along the route. I was the only noob on this particular Death Valley Noobs Rally ride (noob being slang for an inexperienced rider), so they were making sure I didn't get in trouble. We're descending the Darwin Toll Road from Darwin to Panamint Valley near Death Valley, California. At least here, it looks like a road; where we started, it just looked like one of many ravines.

View attachment 18805

I often end up riding with dualsport and enduro as well

, my complaint for the bike is i hope it to be lighter and came with 21 inch tho, the upcoming kove 800x is only 183kg with a 800cc engine and 21 inch, if that spec remain the same when it come out i would seriously consider to change.

Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Plant community

Tire Wheel Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive tire

See less See more

2

Reactions: 1

normanzb

· #53 · 21 d ago

rcat said:
Oh, didn't know you're on this forum! Thanks for the info! The design looks great. I'm going to try with PETG and see how it turns out. Not sure my extruder is up for pa12 nylon but now I might have an excuse to upgrade it!

hey just wondering how's it going with the 3d printing, have you done it? does it fit? or have you decided to let go the g310?

rcat

· #54 · 21 d ago

I got the right side printed and it looks great. I visually lined it up and looks like it will fit. I attempted to print the left side a couple days ago but ended up with some layer separation at some point during the print. I think I'll need to print at a slower speed next time. I'll try again tomorrow probably.

Reactions: 1

rcat

· #55 · 15 d ago

I just got done putting the printed fork guards on. The left side fit absolutely perfectly. The right side had 2 very minor issues which were easily solved - the bottom rounded side was still hitting the little bracket that the ABS wire runs through. I just took a rotary tool to it and trimmed it a bit. The 2nd minor issue was that the whole guard was shifted slightly towards the inside of the fork. I just put a washer where the fork guard mounts and it centered it better.

Overall an excellent design and I appreciate you sharing!

I totally missed that you made a "standard" length model and I printed the Level 2 model for my Rally Raid level 1 suspension. Functionally it's fine but I think the shorter one would probably look better.

We'll see how they hold up printed as PETG. I'm not really sure how it compares to pa12 nylon.

Bicycle Wheel Tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Crankset

I'll get some better pictures over the weekend

See less See more

Reactions: 2

normanzb

· #56 · 15 d ago

rcat said:
I just got done putting the printed fork guards on. The left side fit absolutely perfectly. The right side had 2 very minor issues which were easily solved - the bottom rounded side was still hitting the little bracket that the ABS wire runs through. I just took a rotary tool to it and trimmed it a bit. The 2nd minor issue was that the whole guard was shifted slightly towards the inside of the fork. I just put a washer where the fork guard mounts and it centered it better.

Overall an excellent design and I appreciate you sharing!

I totally missed that you made a "standard" length model and I printed the Level 2 model for my Rally Raid level 1 suspension. Functionally it's fine but I think the shorter one would probably look better.

We'll see how they hold up printed as PETG. I'm not really sure how it compares to pa12 nylon.

View attachment 18871

I'll get some better pictures over the weekend

awesome, thx for the update!
for the 2 issues i will look into it and update the model. i am aware of the second issue but on my bike it still fits and not in contact with the disc or tyre, so i was happy.
do you know the thickness of the spacer you are using? 2mm? i will move it accordingly later.

Reactions: 1

rcat

· #57 · 15 d ago

normanzb said:
do you know the thickness of the spacer you are using? 2mm? i will move it accordingly later.

The spacer is 1mm. I tried stacking 2 at first and that was too much. Without the spacer it wasn't actually hitting anything but was just slightly off-center and close to hitting the fork tube on one side.

rcat

· #58 · 4 d ago

A dead battery prevented me from getting out last weekend but here's a few pictures I got with the fork guards today.

Even did a crash test coming off of the raised single track on the side of the road. Fork guard made it out mostly unscathed but definitely did its job.

Overall very pleased and think they'll hold up just fine.

See less See more

3

Cyrille

· #59 · 4 d ago

You may also add sliders to protect the fork and the swing arm...

Reactions: 1

rcat

· #60 · 2 d ago

rcat said:
Overall very pleased and think they'll hold up just fine.

Well, turns out I spoke too soon. I did a closer inspection today and noticed the right side had pretty much entirely split horizontally. A thick vertical band down the sides might be a good idea for reinforcement. I'll be switching back to the stock fender fork guard for now.

41 - 60 of 60 Posts