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I appreciate the Original Posters tutorial on doing the oil change on the G310GS, including the part numbers required.

I just picked up my G310GS and the dealer offered me a 15% discount on BMW parts so I got the Oil @ $13.81/ Ltr.;
Oil Filter @13.42; and the gasket @$1.52

Prices seem reasonable, and an oil change doesn't appear to require a lot of skill to preform so I'll do it myself and save a couple of hundred $$.

Thanks for all the good advice on this subject.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I appreciate the Original Posters tutorial on doing the oil change on the G310GS, including the part numbers required.
I just picked up my G310GS and the dealer offered me a 15% discount on BMW parts so I got the Oil @ $13.81/ Ltr.;
Oil Filter @13.42; and the gasket @$1.52
Prices seem reasonable, and an oil change doesn't appear to require a lot of skill to preform so I'll do it myself and save a couple of hundred $$.
Thanks for all the good advice on this subject.
Glad that you find the tutorial useful. Take note it was done on a G310R since this is what I own and the GS was not out yet when I've created the post, but I'd guess it's exactly the same procedure for the GS! The same part numbers also apply.
 

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Tutorial Engine Oil Change

Thanks for publishing the how to do the oil change, and the parts and part numbers necessary.
Really helpful:nerd:
PCG
 

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Where did you get the service book/shop manual? I wonder if there is one for the GS?
Do you know how often the oil change is required?
 

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Any oil is better than no oil, clean oil is better than dirty oil but the best oil is the one that is clean and right for the bike. A 15-50 viscosity is not over common but also consider the oil looks after the gears and clutch. Choose the wrong chemistry and the clutch may glaze and the gears not gain the correct shear protection. Diesel spec oil in a bike engine is a poor idea. Too much detergent in the oil.
 

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Where did you get the service book/shop manual? I wonder if there is one for the GS?
You can order the work shop manual from any BMW dealer or onlineshop. The P/N is 01599480044.
I bought mine from
Leebman24.de

Do you know how often the oil change is required?
You should have received the user/owner's/rider's manual when you bought your bike. In the user manual is all the information you need. If you do not have the user manual, download one in your preferred language.
The manual recommends an oil and filter change annually or every 10 000 km (6 000 miles), whichever comes first.
 

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Great write-up.
By the way, I would never buy BMW oil at that price. I'm not going to give money away to BMW.
Rotella T6 Synthetic Diesel Oil matches the API SJ and JASO MA2 requirements at only $22 for a gallon.

eBay has 4 oil filters for $38 :)

Don't even get me started with the $600+ first service maintenance. LOL
Hi~ You have used Rotella T6-5W-40 instead of the Recommended BMW oil for your G310? I heard about people doing this so I bought that oil. Now that I bought it I am having second thoughts. Am I worrying too much about this?
 

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Hi Max,
yes 15w50 is the bmw recomendation.
BUT [there's always a but]
In recent times some bmw dealers in colder climates have now used 5w40.because ....
Many of us have had terrible cold starting problems , and the 5w40 has made starting much easier/better.
I'm guessing that those in 'hotter' climates may well stick to the 15w50.
I've now been using a good quality 5w40 and find starting improved and no running problems.
In my last 30+ years of biking all my bikes have used 5w40 with no problems [in a UK climate]

It is of course entirely your choice.
 

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Hi GOMYW~
This is great advice.Thank You! I live in Wisconsin and I just bought my 2019 G310 brand new in January. I couldn't start it at all. I thought I broke it somehow trailering home! It was the oil that was doing it. Nobody at the BMW shop would tell me this. You are the "BOMB.COM"! Thanks again and best wishes!
 

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I don't pretend this is a difficult task that really needs much explanations, but I realize a lot of the G310R owners are new comers in the world of motorcycling and I thought I could share one of the easiest, yet essential, maintenance task: oil change!
I also don't mean to refrain anyone going to its dealer to have this done. To each his own, I just prefer to handle all the tasks I can do myself, it's just something I enjoy. This way I am also 100% sure of what is being done on my bike. You won't save much time nor money doing this, but you'll probably gain some satisfaction and confidence along the way.
Service manual also describe pretty well how to do this, but sometimes it's fun to have real-life experience and pictures on the side. So let's start.

1- First step is fun, just ride your bike around the corner so the oil gets hot, it will get out of the engine easier this way!

2- Gather the parts and tools.
From left to right on the picture. Costs in Canadian dollars.
2 x 1L OEM Oil Advantec Pro 15W50 - PN: 83212365963 - 13$/liter
1 x OEM Drain Plug Crush Washer - PN: 07119963252 - 2$
1 x OEM Filter - PN: 11428562889 - 23$
1 x 8mm Allen Wrench
1 x 12mm socket w/ wrench
1 x Oil filter wrench. (I've used a "universal one", one of the socket-type fitting exactly the filter would be better but the ones in my toolbox were not the good size, so I've used a universal one.)
1 x Oil drain pan (not pictured)
1 x Torque wrench (not pictured and I did not use one in fact, up to personal experience/preference)


3- Have the bike to stand upright.
I use a standard rear-wheel stand for that purpose.


4- Remove the skid plate.
Put your head down and look under your bike for the first time! There are 4 nuts to remove there using the 12mm socket/wrench.


5- Place the drain pan under engine and unscrew the drain plug using the 8mm allen wrench.


6- Let that oil out get out
...and let's see if you had placed the drain pan in proper location or if your floor is a mess now :)


Taking a look at the drainplug, we see it has a magnetic tip that catched some metal shavings, this is perfectly normal especially right after break-in. There should be less of these small debris, if any, on the next oil change. Also be careful that there is a crush washer on the bolt, or else it stayed on the engine block (less likely). Usually you will replace with a new one but in case you didn't plan to do so, make sure you didn't loose this one in the oil pan...


7- Unscrew the oil filter.
Sometimes you can manage with bare hands but it seems mine was tight enough that I needed the tool.


Let drain...


8- With your finger, put a light coat of oil on the filter rubber seal.
This will ensure it screws in nicely without snugging and making a perfect seal.


9- Screw new filter in place.
Clean your hands (or gloves) first!
Once the base of the filter touched the base of the engine casing, I was able to screw almost one full-turn (maybe 7/8 of a turn?) with my hands. This is tight enough. If you use the tool to screw it, make sure not to over-tighten.


10- Clean the drain plug and fit new crush washer.
Crush washers are meant for allowing a perfect seal and they will "crush" a little bit, preventing you to over-tight the bolt. I often did not replace the crush washer systematically on each oil change, but I was told using the same crush washer over and over could damage the threads of the casing in the long run, it makes sense and for what they cost, I prefer to do it whenever possible.


11- Screw drain plug.
Recommended torque setting is 20Nm. I've done this so many times that I go on these by "feeling". Now your feeling won't be the same as mine so in case of doubt, use a torque wrench (and make sure you know how to set it properly or else you won't be in a much better position!). For more serious and precise engine work I will use a torque wrench, but for the drain plug not necessary in my case.

12- Pour some fresh new oil.
BMW Advantec Pro is supposedly a semi-syntetic oil blend. We know BMW does not produce its own oil, so there must be an equivalent in the big oil brands available for cheaper, but for now I'm sticking with it, at least for the time the bike is under warranty.
BMW mentions 1.7 liter when for a complete flush and filter change. For now you might put a little less to make sure you won't have too much at the end.


Before starting the engine, you'll notice the level seems too high, this is normal, there is no oil in the whole system (the filter is still empty).
Use a rag and clean all traces of oil around the drain plug and the filter.


13- Start the engine for about 1 minute.
Make sure no oil is dripping from the filter nor the drain plug (else revise all previous steps!)
Stop and let oil settle down, then check and add if necessary


This is what was left my 2nd container, so I've roughly used .. 1660ml of new oil.


Done!
Time to clean the floor, you don't want your tires to have any traces of oil on them.
Oh and good idea to check after a real ride also when the oil is hot and that is how the manufacturer recommends you check the level.
Hopefully I did not forget anything -- and do this at your own risk, I can't be held responsible if you FXXX up!
Happy riding!
Fantastic guide, thanks for taking the time to make it. I prefer to change my own oil and for the money that is saved by not paying main dealer prices I can replace my oil more frequently than the service schedule states.👍
 

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Hi~ You have used Rotella T6-5W-40 instead of the Recommended BMW oil for your G310? I heard about people doing this so I bought that oil. Now that I bought it I am having second thoughts. Am I worrying too much about this?
I would say that it depends on the climate that you live in. I live in northern England and it gets quite cold in winter so if that’s the case with you I would recommend trying 5w40 especially if you have issues when starting the bike in winter.
 

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As BMW clearly states on page 117 in the English version of the user/owner's manual: "SAE 15W-50, API SJ / JASO MA2" and
"Additives (e.g. molybdenum-based) are not permissible
because they can attack coated components
of the engine, BMW Motorrad recommends
BMW Motorrad ADVANTEC Pro oil.
"
they can claim your warranty void if you use anything but according to recommendation.
I strongly advice every owner of the G310R or G310GS to consider if they are ready to risk the warranty. For myself, I use the recommended oil. Not because of warranty, that ended over a year ago, but because I made a good deal with a dealer on the oil for 5-6 oil changes.
When I've used all the remaining oil, I will search for an alternative that fit's our Finnish climate. Last two winters I have kept my promise to my wife not to drive in snowy and icy conditions. And it's a long time until next winter (as I'm writing this, it's snowing outside my window).
Whatever oil you choose to pour into your bike, make sure it has the right additive package in it. Not because of warranty, but because of the damage it can do to your engine.
 

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Pulling the clutch in makes a huge difference when trying to start a cold engine, try that before changing the oil to a different viscosity.
 

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Second the point about pulling in the clutch. On bikes with a kickstart, I pull the clutch before kicking the engine over to free off the clutch. The stiction between the plates can be really noticeable. Also stops the first gear selection of the day going in with a clunk. Am I the only one who misses a kickstart?
 

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Am I the only one who misses a kickstart?
I have missed it since my 1979 Ducati 900 SD Darmah I had in the 80-ties. It didn't have it originally, but after the solenoid burnt I installed one. That was the last bike in my possession where it was possible to after install a kick pedal.
 

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You can pop the bike in gear before starting, pull the clutch and then wheel the bike to free off the clutch. My clutch does drag initially so I do this if it is really cold as it stops the bike stalling as soon as I pop it into gear. Does make one think a 15-50 oil is a bit too heavy for cold weather use in these bikes. I thought the clutch was the cause of my initial problem with stalling the bike but, on reflection, an oil change saw the bike improve beyond my expectations so maybe my BMW dealer also refilled it with a lighter oil after its first service?
 

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Strange that BMW haven't issued a service letter about a lighter oil alternative, without the vicious molybdenum.
 

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I don't pretend this is a difficult task that really needs much explanations, but I realize a lot of the G310R owners are new comers in the world of motorcycling and I thought I could share one of the easiest, yet essential, maintenance task: oil change!
I also don't mean to refrain anyone going to its dealer to have this done. To each his own, I just prefer to handle all the tasks I can do myself, it's just something I enjoy. This way I am also 100% sure of what is being done on my bike. You won't save much time nor money doing this, but you'll probably gain some satisfaction and confidence along the way.
Service manual also describe pretty well how to do this, but sometimes it's fun to have real-life experience and pictures on the side. So let's start.

1- First step is fun, just ride your bike around the corner so the oil gets hot, it will get out of the engine easier this way!

2- Gather the parts and tools.
From left to right on the picture. Costs in Canadian dollars.
2 x 1L OEM Oil Advantec Pro 15W50 - PN: 83212365963 - 13$/liter
1 x OEM Drain Plug Crush Washer - PN: 07119963252 - 2$
1 x OEM Filter - PN: 11428562889 - 23$
1 x 8mm Allen Wrench
1 x 12mm socket w/ wrench
1 x Oil filter wrench. (I've used a "universal one", one of the socket-type fitting exactly the filter would be better but the ones in my toolbox were not the good size, so I've used a universal one.)
1 x Oil drain pan (not pictured)
1 x Torque wrench (not pictured and I did not use one in fact, up to personal experience/preference)


3- Have the bike to stand upright.
I use a standard rear-wheel stand for that purpose.


4- Remove the skid plate.
Put your head down and look under your bike for the first time! There are 4 nuts to remove there using the 12mm socket/wrench.


5- Place the drain pan under engine and unscrew the drain plug using the 8mm allen wrench.


6- Let that oil out get out
...and let's see if you had placed the drain pan in proper location or if your floor is a mess now :)


Taking a look at the drainplug, we see it has a magnetic tip that catched some metal shavings, this is perfectly normal especially right after break-in. There should be less of these small debris, if any, on the next oil change. Also be careful that there is a crush washer on the bolt, or else it stayed on the engine block (less likely). Usually you will replace with a new one but in case you didn't plan to do so, make sure you didn't loose this one in the oil pan...


7- Unscrew the oil filter.
Sometimes you can manage with bare hands but it seems mine was tight enough that I needed the tool.


Let drain...


8- With your finger, put a light coat of oil on the filter rubber seal.
This will ensure it screws in nicely without snugging and making a perfect seal.


9- Screw new filter in place.
Clean your hands (or gloves) first!
Once the base of the filter touched the base of the engine casing, I was able to screw almost one full-turn (maybe 7/8 of a turn?) with my hands. This is tight enough. If you use the tool to screw it, make sure not to over-tighten.


10- Clean the drain plug and fit new crush washer.
Crush washers are meant for allowing a perfect seal and they will "crush" a little bit, preventing you to over-tight the bolt. I often did not replace the crush washer systematically on each oil change, but I was told using the same crush washer over and over could damage the threads of the casing in the long run, it makes sense and for what they cost, I prefer to do it whenever possible.


11- Screw drain plug.
Recommended torque setting is 20Nm. I've done this so many times that I go on these by "feeling". Now your feeling won't be the same as mine so in case of doubt, use a torque wrench (and make sure you know how to set it properly or else you won't be in a much better position!). For more serious and precise engine work I will use a torque wrench, but for the drain plug not necessary in my case.

12- Pour some fresh new oil.
BMW Advantec Pro is supposedly a semi-syntetic oil blend. We know BMW does not produce its own oil, so there must be an equivalent in the big oil brands available for cheaper, but for now I'm sticking with it, at least for the time the bike is under warranty.
BMW mentions 1.7 liter when for a complete flush and filter change. For now you might put a little less to make sure you won't have too much at the end.


Before starting the engine, you'll notice the level seems too high, this is normal, there is no oil in the whole system (the filter is still empty).
Use a rag and clean all traces of oil around the drain plug and the filter.


13- Start the engine for about 1 minute.
Make sure no oil is dripping from the filter nor the drain plug (else revise all previous steps!)
Stop and let oil settle down, then check and add if necessary


This is what was left my 2nd container, so I've roughly used .. 1660ml of new oil.


Done!
Time to clean the floor, you don't want your tires to have any traces of oil on them.
Oh and good idea to check after a real ride also when the oil is hot and that is how the manufacturer recommends you check the level.
Hopefully I did not forget anything -- and do this at your own risk, I can't be held responsible if you FXXX up!
Happy riding!
Wonderful. Thanks. It is just a normal motorcycle oil change. What else is needed at the 600 mile check? Air filter? Valve adjust?
 
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