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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I dropped the bike off for its 6,000 mile service today:

USD $249.17, with $155.00 for labor. But that's about what I expected.

However, I also noticed two other things.

First, the clutch feels completely different. The friction point is much farther out than it used to be. At first, I thought there was something wrong with the bike, because it wasn't moving as I was letting out the clutch. It's now basically as far out as it could be, which feels very unnatural. Why would that be? Did someone adjust it?

Second, the mechanic told me that they cleaned and adjusted the chain. It looks like they sprayed something on one side of the chain, but not on the rest. Whatever they did with the chain, is it supposed to be that way?

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I dropped the bike off for its 6,000 mile service today:

USD $249.17, with $155.00 for labor. But that's about what I expected.

However, I also noticed two other things.

First, the clutch feels completely different. The friction point is much farther out than it used to be. At first, I thought there was something wrong with the bike, because it wasn't moving as I was letting out the clutch. It's now basically as far out as it could be, which feels very unnatural. Why would that be? Did someone adjust it?

Second, the mechanic told me that they cleaned and adjusted the chain. It looks like they sprayed something on one side of the chain, but not on the rest. Whatever they did with the chain, is it supposed to be that way?

View attachment 18457

View attachment 18458
Didn’t put much effort into that didn’t do it right share your pics with the dealer that’s BS
 

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I dropped the bike off for its 6,000 mile service today:

USD $249.17, with $155.00 for labor. But that's about what I expected.

However, I also noticed two other things.

First, the clutch feels completely different. The friction point is much farther out than it used to be. At first, I thought there was something wrong with the bike, because it wasn't moving as I was letting out the clutch. It's now basically as far out as it could be, which feels very unnatural. Why would that be? Did someone adjust it?

Second, the mechanic told me that they cleaned and adjusted the chain. It looks like they sprayed something on one side of the chain, but not on the rest. Whatever they did with the chain, is it supposed to be that way?

View attachment 18457

View attachment 18458
If done at a legitimate BMW shop... the should have provided you with a detailed bill of what they 'did' to the bike.

"Why would that be? Did someone adjust it?"
Yup... and might have done a bad job.

Most all clutch adjustments are done right out on the handlebar.
Move the protective rubber off the adjusting nuts (or screws). Pair of pliers, loosen the bigger nut (locking) next to the
clutch lever mount. Then the smaller nut is either screwed into or out of the clutch lever mount.
Into the mount = more free play. Out of the mount = less free play. Tighten the bigger nut up against
the clutch mount. (Maybe spray some lube in there.) Replace the rubber cover. Done.
Pretty sure the owners manual has some specs on the 'free play' in the clutch lever.

"Second, the mechanic told me that they cleaned and adjusted the chain.
It looks like they sprayed something on one side of the chain, but not on the rest. Whatever they did with the chain, is it supposed to be that way?"

Chain 'wax'... applied very poorly.
Aside: Most 'O or X' ring chains don't require much lube at all.
For street use, weekly WD-40 sprayed on the chain, then the chain wiped clean with a rag or shop towel to get the grit off.
Kerosene or WD-40 mostly keeps the X or O rings 'soft' and continuing to seal the interior of the chain... (where the permanent lube is).
IMHO: Heaver or excess lube just flies off the chain and makes the bike dirty.

Based on your detailed invoice. Hopefully they changed the oil.

Does the oil filter look 'new' ? (I write the starting mileage on the oil filter with a silver 'Sharpie' pen.)
Look at the nuts on the skid plate... any evidence that a tool has touched them ?
Look at the oil in the 'view window'. Nice clear oil or is it crappy dark oil ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
According to the paperwork, the mechanic did all the usual checks. But given how he dealt with the chain, it does make you wonder how thoroughly he was with the rest...sigh

I love motorcycles. I love BMW. But dealing with dealers has not been a great experience so far. I hope that'll change.

I certainly get now why some people do as much of their own work on their bikes as they can.
 

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When my service folks do or don't do something, next time I'm there, I visit the service manager and ask. Almost every time, there's a good reason for what they did or didn't do. A couple cases in point. Case 1: During my 12K service, a fork oil change was listed in my manual as part of the service, but I didn't see any charges for fork oil. When I asked the next time I was there, he told me they don't do fork oil at 12K unless there is evidence of leakage, he said it's a waste of money. Case 2: My bike has VMX cross-spoke wheels by KKE Racing, so the spokes need to be checked periodically, but my manual assumes I have the OEM wheels. Because of this, I specifically listed checking the spokes in my notes for the service manager. When I asked him why there were no charges for checking the spokes, he said they automatically check the spokes on any bike that has spokes; there is not extra charge unless they have to re-true the wheel or replace spokes.

In your case, I'd show him a pic of the chain and ask him if this was enough or should it have more lube on the opposite side. Besides ensuring the service of your bike, the goal here is to show them that you're paying attention.

As far as the clutch adjustment goes, there's a spec for clutch lever play; it's only 1-2mm (see below). The fact that yours feels different tells me they checked and adjusted it. That doesn't mean you like where it is, it just means they adjusted it. The fact is, your clutch lever play should be set to spec and you should be adjusting where the clutch engages via an adjustable clutch lever, not via clutch lever play. However, earlier 310s don't have adjustable clutch levers, so all your can do is adjust clutch play. If that's what you did (or someone did for you previously) and they came along a set it back to spec, there will be a huge difference in the feel. Not wrong, just not what you want. If you tell them to skip the clutch level play adjustment, they will or they'll tell why that's a bad idea (if it is).

P.S. 1-2mm for clutch lever play is the tightest clutch lever play I recall, so I walked out to my bike just now and checked mine. Sure enough, it's set to 1-2mm, but I have my adjustable levers set so I can hold my hand grip with my two outside fingers while pulling the clutch in using just my two inside fingers and the clutch is fully engaged when I have the lever pulled right up against my two outside fingers. If you continue to have real or just feel problems with clutch play/engagement and you don't have adjustable levers, I highly recommend you get them.

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Aside: Most 'O or X' ring chains don't require much lube at all.
For street use, weekly WD-40 sprayed on the chain, then the chain wiped clean with a rag or shop towel to get the grit off.
Kerosene or WD-40 mostly keeps the X or O rings 'soft' and continuing to seal the interior of the chain... (where the permanent lube is).
IMHO: Heaver or excess lube just flies off the chain and makes the bike dirty.
Actually, kerosene and WD-40 strip away any lube that's present, so they are good for cleaning the chain. To keep o-rings supple, I use diesel. I got the idea from...

 

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Quick question that crosses my mind as I read the posts above: can the 2017-2020 G310GS be retrofitted with the new OEM adjustable clutch lever (available on 2021-2023 G310GS)?
I'd be very surprised if they couldn't be. I'm also sure there are after market options also, but make sure they are returnable. I bought a set of short adjustable levers for my GS that I had to return because the clutch lever didn't fit properly. It hit the switch housing before the lever touched the hand grip. They were a cheap no-name brand on Amazon.
 

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Here's a very reputable example of an after market lever option being sold through a BMW dealer...

 

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Using...


...I just checked if BMW's adjustable clutch lever can be used on earlier models, the answer is yes per the fitment table in the picture below. Note the picture is for the adjustable lever, but the diagram shows the non-adjustable clutch lever - the pictures are often wrong per my dealer. To make sure, I searched using a 2019 G310GS and I got both the adjustable and the non-adjustable offered under different part numbers with the adjustable being twice the price of the non-adjustable and the picture being the same for both.

Link to picture below:

Font Line Parallel Screenshot Number
 

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Bendable levers are very cool if you don’t have decent gaurds installed. Even if you do sometimes. Short levers allow for clutch action with two fingers allowing for better control when shifting. Also short levers do look better than just sawing off stock ones.
 

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@JerryG: I am curious about your setup ... why are there 2 potentiometers near the right mirror? Near the base of the left mirror I see a switch that strangely ressembles the one from the heated grips... correct? Why not mounting this switch inside the dashboard? Last question: which windscreen do you use and with which mounting system for the GPS?
 

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what kind quad lock mount is that? where are you mounting it?
Quad Lock 360 Head - Lever Head on top of...
Quad Lock Anti-Vibration Dampener on top of...
Quad Lock 360 Base Flat Rectangle (universal AMPs hole spacing ) on top of...
Rally Raid GPS Mount-RRP 509 (on Handlebar Bridge) on top of the combination of...
Rally Raid Billet Fat Bar Riser-RRP 825
Rally Raid Fat Bar Packer-RRP 826
Rally Raid Renthal Fat Bar(Adv Kit)-Gold RRP 485

If you're staying with OEM bars, you could use...
Quad Lock 360 Head - Lever Head on top of...
Quad Lock Anti-Vibration Dampener on top of...
Quad Lock 360 Base Flat Rectangle (universal AMPs hole spacing ) on top of...
Rally Raid GPS Mount-RRP 509 on top of...
Rally Raid G310GS/R Billet OEM Top Clamp-RRP 824 (this would replace your current handlebar top clamp/bridge)

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