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wobbly headlight... yes we all have the wobbly headlight syndrome... This is how I removed most of the wobbly but left in some anti vibration projection.
1. Remove all the plastics, yes I know a lot of screws, but really it's a ten minute job.
2. Disconnect the wiring from headlight and remove
3. Remove the headlight mounting bracket 3 screws
4. Shorten the crush sleeve, the amount I cut off was very carefully calculated taking into account many factors, namely the width of my slip joint pliers.
5. Reassembly in reverse order, beep beep beep beep
6. Road test at night, observe no headlight bounce.🤔
 

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Is there something that shows how the plastics come off and do the little snap nuts pop off?
 

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I’d be very interesting in hearing the exact measurement of the sleeve after you’ve cut it.

I’ve observed my headlight "bouncing" quite a bit as well, so I’d love to find a good solution to it while still retaining - at least some of - the sleeve. :D
 

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Is there something that shows how the plastics come off and do the little snap nuts pop off?
I have never had any issues with the captive nuts popping off, to remove the plastics, start with the side cheeks, 3 screws each, on is round the back. then the seat, now the two centre secrews at the back of the tank and front of tank cover, then the rest of the screws holding the tank cover on, then flex the tank cover, and remove it, next is the peak, then the instrument cover, just take your time, slacken the 10mm nut on the horn, gives you more clearance...
 

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Thanks for the information. I have items on order to add power for my electronics. When they come in I'll be taking the tupperware off and getting it all done at once.
 

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maybe i am the only one, but wobbling of the headlight is not bothering me. especially, when i converted to full LED assembly.
 

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maybe i am the only one, but wobbling of the headlight is not bothering me. especially, when i converted to full LED assembly.
You’re not the only one, Kris. In fact, I think of it as BMW giving us a free headlight modulator. Anything that gets a driver’s attention cannot be a bad thing, IMO. And my guess is BMW designed it intentionally that way, and that those who have modified their headlights to be more rigid will be replacing their bulbs a lot more than those of us who have chosen to leave well enough alone. Time will tell.
 

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Interesting...I've been riding a motorcycle of some type since 1964. Not one was designed with a wobbling headlight. The suspension on some of the old bikes was so bad it appeared that the head light was wobbling when going down the road. My Yamaha's, Honda's, Kawasaki's, Husky's, Benelli's, KTM's and BMW's have all had solid mounts for the headlights without causing the bulbs to burn out prematurely. The engineers at BMW did not intentionally design the headlight on the 310's to wobble as an alternative to a modulator. They just assumed their design would hold the headlight in place, without wobbling! Two connection points is cheaper than three. The rubber used in the spacers is too flexible. The wobble didn't bother me, it bothered all the people flashing their lights at me. All the people flashing lights at me bothered me. If you rarely ride at night it's probably not a big deal. Since it isn't a safety concern the chances of BMW doing anything under warranty is slim. My fix was quite easy. I cut two small wedges out of a firm piece of rubber thick enough to put pressure on the plastic plate, put a little silicone adhesive on each wedge and pushed them behind the plastic plate that's moving. Doesn't require disassembly of anything. The headlight still has some damping effect from the oem washers, but doesn't wobble with every little bump any longer.
 

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You’re not the only one, Kris. In fact, I think of it as BMW giving us a free headlight modulator. Anything that gets a driver’s attention cannot be a bad thing, IMO. And my guess is BMW designed it intentionally that way, and that those who have modified their headlights to be more rigid will be replacing their bulbs a lot more than those of us who have chosen to leave well enough alone. Time will tell.
You are talking utter rubbish, see the comment below yours...from W08NONU
 

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whatever is reasoning of BMW, the non-rigid assembly is there by design. I don't know if any other companies do such thing. my crf250 goes through all kind of rough terrains and the bulb never got damaged. perhaps, making one more visible by annoying other drivers with the wobbling light could the reason :). I don't ride much in the night, so it is not bothering me personally. I wonder, do other BMW have similar design?
 

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Kris, I would be interested in the LED conversion, do you have any info on the bulb you bought and photos etc...
Some of the members of this forum made the same conversion. You can find many pictures if you search "LED conversion" . I got the whole assembly, rather cheap from that great guy: https://mattgeckoleds.com/shop?olsPage=products/led-headlight-bmw-g310r-g310gs. It is better to get it from him, because often items brought directly from China have broken wires. I had such bad luck before. changing the headlight assembly takes just 5min, and no need to remove any panels.

A cheaper way is to just install the LED bulb, like Beamtech is great. you get 2 bulbs for 30usd. But for LED to work at its best, it needs the suitable headlight reflectors, or else the light tends to be too dispersed. still it will be way better than the oem. if you go this route, get also LED parking light, makes big difference in visibility.

The full conversion is preferable. The light is so bright and focused that it feels like riding in dark as in daylight. and the assembly is very pretty. I did fitted also great Auxiliary cyclops lights which are so bright that they are almost as strong as the main light. I connected them to high beam. It is plug and play, but you need to find a place to attach them because they are rather large. My solution was welding small steel plates to the Hepco tank guard. but it is also possible to buy special clamps that attach to tank guard.

https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/-Long-Range-Optimus-LED-Auxiliary-light-Round_p_10.html

by the way, I have several bikes and I converted all of them to full LED headlight assembly. it makes such a big difference.
 

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My partial solution to the problem was pretty simple.

After removing the headlight i've just inserted a 1cm noprene material between the plastic bracket and the holder.
After mounting the headlight I've also put the neoprene rubber under the headlight.
Wobbling is reduced but not removed.
 

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So, BMW really meant to attach the headlight rigidly, but oops, the rubber spacers turned out to be too soft. And nobody at BMW noticed nor cared until all the bikes had been produced and shipped.

Right.
I think it might be possible, based on my experience with this fun and annoying little bike.
 

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ss
My partial solution to the problem was pretty simple.

After removing the headlight i've just inserted a 1cm noprene material between the plastic bracket and the holder.
After mounting the headlight I've also put the neoprene rubber under the headlight.
Wobbling is reduced but not removed.
it looks like an neat solution, even though someone else just replaced the rubbers with washers, making the assembly rigid. it does not bother me so I did not do anything.
 

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why you consider this bike annoying? i really enjoy it but fingers crossed, i have not yet run into any problem with it,,
I have had no problems so far, touch wood. yes the wobbly headlight, looks like my side stand is fixed, it looks very substantial, I have been in the saddle for 11 hours, no problem there, it's been low sided and survived ok (broken mirror, bend bars, bent brake lever, a few dings and scratches) always starts even when cold (give it a bit of gas) no vibrations issues, I will give it 9.5 out of 10 its not used off road. just like 95% of the R-GS its stays on the tarseal...
 

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why you consider this bike annoying? i really enjoy it but fingers crossed, i have not yet run into any problem with it,,
noise from somewhere? or anywhere? I still cannot identify the location of the noise from the bike at some resonance frequency. And the clutch lever? The headlight vibrating? Struggling with cold start at around 0C ?(ironically, I charged the battery for a month with trickle charger and measured the voltage frequently, the seond time I start the bike this season, it took me a few shots in order to start the engine. And I still struggle with starting recently even its warmer now) And I already saw some of my friends replaced their gasket for the engine due to big leaks even at low mileage. I am carry a stupid jump starter all the time just in case.

I am an Mechanical Eng PhD gradstudent especially good at Thermodynamics and Cryogenics and used to work on IC engine and other R&D stuff. Many ofmy students now even work at FCA or Tsla, I almost went to TSLA but I want to keep my research. In my opinion, some parts of this bike is poorly designed. But I am aware of this is what I got for what I paid for. I like this bike, but I am not blind on some issues.
 
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