I guess a dealer will probably charge an hour not matter what...
I doubt there are G310 specific DIY videos but this bike use the same system as many many bikes, so if you search for clutch replacement videos, I'm sure you can find something close enough.
You basically have 2 adjusters, one at the lever end, one down on the engine before it connects to clutch (just follow the cable and you'll find the adjuster). Making the adjuster loose on the lever side should be enough for you to pull out the cable tip that locks in the lever. Then with that released the other end of the cable should be easy to disengage as well. Installation is reversal of these steps. Make sure you note where the cable is routed before you remove it, because not following the same routing could cause the cable to be too tight (when you turn the handlebar for example).
Here's a video, for a dirt bike but the principles would be the same.

Out of curiosity, why do you need to change the cable ? You damaged it yourself? If not, try to have it replaced under warranty - should not have to change it that soon - unless you have many many miles on the bike already.

 

Wouldn't this be a warranty item? Clutch cables aren't supposed to break that often.

 

Hi Heap. I was finding it hard to get into any gear. At first I thought it was because I had alot of play with the lever. But then noticed that there is only one wire intact. The remaining wires have all snapped. I can only assume they were rubbing on something. Thankfully I discovered this when I got home. Otherwise I would have been in trouble if the remaining wire had snapped on the freeway.

 

@esa1178

WOAH! I've had a clutch cable snap on me (previous bike) about 3 blocks away after I left work ... it SUCKED to push it back to work ... so glad you made it home!

I wonder if this is warranty or something they will try to push back on you ... did you go through any maintenance/service previously? I wonder if something changed from there ... in any case, keep me updated on this.

This might be a good time to put together a DIY article on this, if you do it yourself...

 

Sure sounds like a warranty issue to me. These things haven't been out long enough for this to happen, unless they neglected to lube it during assembly - I'm assuming that the cable is bad at the handlebar lever end. At about 2:00 in the excellent video referenced above.

The cable's ball end should rotate freely in the recess in the lever. If it doesn't (for whatever reason) the constant bending when you operate the clutch will quickly fatigue the cable and *snap*.

Not, you understand, that this has ever happened to one of MY bikes.

Easy job - the hardest part will probably be routing the cable - especially if it's tied down under the tank where you have to remove the tank to get it.

 

To answer the original question, a new clutch cable is $28.13. It’s a Bowden cable, BMW part #: 32738563262 That p/n is the same for both the R & the GS.

 

I had trouble changing gears and my dealer changed the clutch cable.
From that point on it was much better.

Maby some extra friction in the cable (Teflon) caused this or the outer (and inner) cable was not moving freely (to many angles, twist etc.)

 

I would go back to the dealer and ask for a new cable.
You have a 2year warranty !!!!!!!! And clutch cables do not wear out so fast.

By the way, do not lubricate the inner cable.
The outher cable has a Teflon lining and if you use oil or grease, the Teflon will wear out rapidly (All my previous Beamers had Teflon coated clutch cables).

 

2022 G310R - 2900 miles
My wife was complaining that the clutch lever was rough and it was becoming difficult to find neutral.
I thought it may be a case of lubricating the lever pivot and some adjustment. Upon inspection I found that the cable was starting to fail with several broken strands of the wire cable inner. The bike has the later style adjustable levers and the design looks poor. The cutout for the cable is too small causing the cable to deflect again the body of the lever every time the lever is used.
The cable is covered by warranty but then here is the conundrum.
The part cost is £31 delivered to my home in the UK.
The dealership is 50 miles each way from home.
For a warranty claim it's one trip for investigation and a further trip once approved for the work to be completed - £25 in fuel along with around 6 hours of someone's life travelling to and from the dealership and waiting for the work to be done.
On balance I think it best to order the part and fit at home. Will also be looking at the lever and possibly add a shallow relief in cable slot.